- TEXT BY 周信潔
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOISE
- POSTED 2015/01/01
10月10號,齊聚倫敦的美髮人在互相問安後,率先拋出的問題都是「今晚的NOISE在哪舉辦?」延續每年的傳統,主辦單位在一周前透過社群網路慢慢釋放消息,隨著表演陣容一個接一個曝光,眾人的期待也日漸高漲。
In true NOISE fashion, the guerrilla style event built suspension, gradually revealing information over social media. From announcing the incredible line up throughout the week, to only revealing the venue hours beforehand, NOISE really was the place to be on Saturday night.
今年是NOISE於第四次於倫敦舉辦,邀請各國的美髮菁英,在這個無關品牌只管創意的舞台上,一起大玩前衛創意,自四年前首次舉辦至今,NOISE已經成了美髮人每年倫敦之行的必去行程。而在這一年間,NOISE更於全球各地引發騷動,無論巴黎或上海,NOISE把創意帶進各大城市,帶領著美髮人引起一陣陣喧囂。
今年的NOISE將場地拉到東倫敦Hackney,漆黑的公園中間矗立一座小小的廢棄教堂,門口纏繞著有如命案現場才會出現的黃色膠帶,寫著大大的NOISE,才6點出頭,就已經有著長長的人龍排隊,對於即將上演的髮秀難掩興奮地討論著。
The uber cool St John at Hackney opened its doors to the 500 strong crowd, where an inspirational line up of hairdressing talent was waiting to entertain and excite.
Compered by International Creative Director of SACO and founder of NOISE, Richard Ashforth, the rules of NOISE are simple: “15 minutes of whatever the F*@k you want, as long as it includes some hair!”
自七點入場後,觀眾們躁動不安的盼著開場,終於在一個小時的等待後,由Peter Gray首先率領團隊上台。看著他牽著巍巍顫顫的蒙面模特兒走上舞台,眾人的好奇與期待的氛圍瀰漫全場。擅長透過破壞和切割來呈現作品的Peter Gray不慌不忙地將棉絮堆疊,在不斷抽絲塑型後,完成了份量感十足的誇張髮型,然而真正讓全場程觀眾為之驚艷的,是模特兒拆下面具的剎那,面具下的面容皺紋滿佈卻掩飾不了自信的光采,她是現今最年長的模特兒-高齡87歲的Daphne Selfe與Peter Gray攜手贏來全場熱烈的掌聲和尖叫。
第二組上場的Brooks & Brooks,擅長將前衛造型與美感結合,他們透過編髮搭配網格和定型液,做出如葡萄般的顆粒,並以白色顏料作點綴,展現幾何之美。
接著是萬眾期待的剪髮大師Tim Hartley,頭上戴著礦工的照明燈,讓觀眾更能清楚見到所有髮型細微的變化,在短短15分鐘內,他以精湛的刀工創造兩款完美水平線條和一款頂部層次鮮明的帥氣髮型。
The event got underway with Peter Gray and his team taking to the stage, surprising everyone by revealing their model at the end as 87 year old Daphne Selfe, the world's oldest model! Brooks & Brooks were up next showcasing their beautiful avant garde work, followed by the legendary Tim Hartley who, even without saying a word, conveyed his usual humour and flair to the awestruck crowd.
接著上場的Allilon Education以大自然為靈感,透過剪裁與色彩的搭配,對比大自然的壯麗和人類的渺小。Xavi Garcia則在剪裁上玩技巧,熟練的剪出層次分明的髮型,以低層次凸顯預先染好的繽紛色彩;下一組是今年以像素染席捲全球的X-presion,從模特兒戲劇性的登台,伴隨音樂,X-presion將預先染好的髮片一層一層的組裝,細緻的格紋和鮮明的顏色在模特兒白金的髮絲上逐漸排出代表X-presion的字母X。15分鐘內,在不同髮片的排列和長度變化下,他們總共呈現了三種像素染造型,更在最後將所有髮片扯下,在觀眾一陣驚呼中重新造型,獲得滿場掌聲。
Hot on Tim's heels were "the young pretenders" Allilon Education, bringing with them fresh energy and cool colour work, followed by Xavi Garcia's sharp cuts and iridescent colour. X-presion then took to the stage, recreating their incredible pixilated colour technique which "broke the Internet" with #xpresionpixel.
然後,遠從上海前來的戴伯學院以強烈的色彩和極具份量感的形狀驚豔全場,炒熱了現場氣氛,讓全場觀眾更期待接著要上場的SACO團隊。作為壓軸,Richard親自帶領SACO的創意團隊帶來最極致的髮藝表演,不論是妝容或是服裝都有強烈的前衛風格,他們更在直接在舞台上以電推修剪模特兒的假髮,做出參差不齊的不對稱收尾,與厚重的髮絲呈現粗曠之美。
Following on from their appearance at NOISE Shanghai, Debut Academy presented their striking models featuring strong shapes and graphic colour, before SACO stormed the stage for the finale of the show. It true SACO style, the creative team worked on their models with trademark showmanship, clipper-cutting their model’s wigs to produce sharp cuts with exaggerated volume.
NOISE完美謝幕後,Richard表示,「10月的倫敦有太多正式的髮秀和展覽,但少有能讓髮型師拋開品牌、拋開對立的舞台,我也希望能透過NOISE,鼓舞更多年輕髮型師們大膽玩創意。許多業界的傳奇人物匯聚一堂,分享技術,更散佈熱忱和靈感,藉由這種快閃形式的表演,營造『不經意的、意外的』氛圍,誠如觀眾們永遠不知道舞台上將會上演著什麼樣的精采表演!」
Of the event, Richard said: “NOISE?was created to share knowledge, passion and inspiration. It connects the viewer to the performer with more of a ‘pop up’ feel rather than a formally staged show, pushing the industry forward and taking creativity to a new level. The last minute announcements of artists and venue give the whole thing an ‘unexpected feel’, as much for the audience as for the artists!”