Salon News Asia
  • TEXT BY 周信潔
  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jelle Mollema
  • POSTED
圖
聚焦技術者
Bertus a.k.a The Bloody Butcher
  • TEXT BY 周信潔
  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jelle Mollema
  • POSTED

就算沒聽過Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier,身為髮型師勢必也注意到近年男士髮型興起了一股復古的油頭風潮,男士理髮廳也隨著這股熱潮應運而起,然而戴起這股風潮的,正是Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier,在instagram上擁有16萬追蹤者,Facebook專頁則有54萬的高人氣,創辦者Bertus和Leen趁著熱潮,推出Reuzel髮油,風靡全球。兩人與其團隊屢次登上國際舞台,將男士理髮推向更高的境界,成為男士理髮崛起最大推手。

 

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看準市場需求 打造男士專屬避風港

Bertus和Leen有著超過20年的好交情,兩人的理髮經驗相加超過40年,2011年時,他們在極度缺乏男士理髮廳的家鄉荷蘭鹿特丹創立了Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier,「這裡是男人的避風港,」Bertus下了這樣的註解,「這是我們一直希望打造的天堂,一個可以震耳欲聾的放著我們喜愛的音樂;一個帶著濃厚復古風格;一個我們可以隨心所欲做自己的理髮廳。但最重要的,是城裡的男人們終於不用再強迫自己走進髮廊,容忍剛從學校畢業的16歲少女滔滔不絕的建議他們可以剪跟小賈斯汀一樣的髮型!」

 

Bertus and Leen cofounded Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier in 2011. They have been friends for more than two decades and they’ve always wanted to open a shop “where they wanted to go themselves”. “We really wanted to open a shop for men only as an answer to all the unisex shops where they had to sit next to the old lady with the foiles in her hair, getting a haircut from a 16 year old girl advising him a Justin Bieber bowl cut because it would go really good with his eyes.”Bertus said.

 

當時,身邊的人都極力阻止他們,說「別傻了,這真是這世紀最瘋狂的舉動!」時,Bertus和Leen仍然選擇堅持夢想,靠著互補的個性和堅固的友情基礎,Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier在2011年2月開幕,在短短一個月內迅速竄紅,成為鹿特丹最炙手可熱的理髮廳,每天爆量的客人讓他們得聘請更多人手。直到現在,店裡依舊每天爆滿,即使已有超過10位理髮師進駐,仍然忙得不可開交。

 

Back to 2011, the two started the shop with themselves and they had to hire new barbers within a month due to the huge success. There are now more than ten barbers working in the shop.

 

在Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier工作的理髮師們都有一個顯著的共通點-刺青,Bertus稍微解釋了刺青與理髮師之間深遠的歷史,更提到大部分的理髮師身上或多或少,都有著與剃刀、電推或是理髮相關的刺青,而在Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier,每位工作者都把店徽紋在身上,「我們是一個大家庭,而這就如同我們的家徽。」

 

There’s an interesting common between all of them that every member has a lots of tattoos, “barbering and tattooing always have been closely connected since a long time ago.” However, what makes them a team is not just because they all get tattoos but the fact that they all wear the same tattoo – the logo of the shop, “it’s a bit like a family crest.” Bertus explained.

 

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善用文字與圖片的影響渲染力做宣傳

問起 Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier快速崛起的原因,Bertus將一切歸功於機運,表示他們只是剛好在對的時間地點做了正確的事。但是不可否認的,兩人的努力和技術也是主因之一,以他們在社群網路上的成功為例,Bertus會特別研究自己喜歡的專業如何經營,並且在圖片和文字的挑選上盡量以讓粉絲能產生共鳴為首要條件。為了讓遠在其他城市或國家的粉絲能有身歷其境的參與感,在 Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier也有一位常住攝影師Jelle Mollema,負責側拍,增加理髮師與觀眾的互動。

 

Ask about the reason to their rapid success. Bertus didn’t take the credit but being humble and said: “I think the main reason is luck. Luck to be in the right place at the right time.” Due to the internet, the world has become smaller than ever. They consistatly post images on social medias, there’s also a photographer, Jelle Mollema, hanging around the shop to take photos so people around the world be more involed in what’s undergoing in the shop. Although social medias take a huge part of their success, he reminds people: “Never forget that social media can make you or break you.”

 

但是若要談到最成功的行銷手法,就不能不提起Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier這個店名…

「在荷蘭文裡,Schorem其實是非常髒的一個字,若是用來罵男生是非常非常不禮貌的。」Bertus更笑著分享他媽媽聽到店名時,甚至哭著說「我不希望有人這樣稱呼我的兒子!」,然而在荷蘭文以Schoo-rem 發音時,卻也是「我幫他剃頭髮」這個動詞的過去式。聰明的文字遊戲,讓Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier成為了每個荷蘭人過耳不忘的響亮店名,這是他們最初卻也最成功的宣傳。

 

There’s also a story behind the name of Schorem Haarsnijder en Barbier. After laughing hardly, Bertus shared the meaning Schorem, “It is actually a really bad word in The Netherlands. It kinda translates as scumbags but it’s actually worse than that.” He then continued, “When I called my mom and told her the name of the shop was going to be ‘Schorem’ she cried a little telling me ‘I don’t want anybody to call my son Schorem’. Beside that, it’s aloso a bit of wordplay. When pronouncing it Schoo-rem, it’s the past tense of Scheer-hem which means “I shaved him” It’s a pretty clever name because in Holland nobody will forget it once they’ve heard it, “I guess this is our first and strongest marketing trick so far…”

 

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理髮師與客人 在歡笑與淚水間譜出最真實的人生故事

「擔任理髮師其實是一件需要謙卑自己的職業,永遠把客人放在首位,而不是你的自尊。」他更進一步闡述,「當一位男士上門剪髮,也許他會跟你分享他的生活,好的理髮師知道何時該說話,何時該住嘴,客人與理髮師之間的信任感也從此建立。」

 

“Being a barber is a very humble profession and it should always be about your patron, never your own ego.” Bertus then explained, “A guy wants to come to be amongst his peers, sharing the struggles of everyday live, a good barber knows when to talk as he knows when to shut up a listen. The brand of trust that is build between a barber and his patron is a not something to think lightly about.”

 

在每天川流不息的客人裡,有著一個另Bertus永遠銘記在心的身影。

一個平凡的工作日,一位帶著氧氣罩的年輕人坐在輪椅上,在父親的陪同下進了店裡,年輕人說自己不久於世,在所剩不多的時間來到Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier理髮是他人生清單上的其中一項。雖然面對死亡,年輕人幽默樂觀的態度感動了店裡所有的理髮師,在歡笑中他們替他剪了一個完美的髮型,並目送他離開店裡。

 

兩週後,那位父親獨自出現在Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier,來向每一位理髮師致謝,卻也帶上消息,表示年輕人在理髮後兩天過世,這時,每個人都流下眼淚。Bertus表示自己永遠無法忘記這位年輕人和這個與店內夥伴共同經歷的一刻。

 

Within all the customers that came to Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier, there’s a tear-shedding moment that Bertus could never forget.

 

One day, a young gentleman and his father came toSchorem Haarsnijder En Barbier, the son was in a wheelchair and an oxygen machine. They told the barbers that he only had a short time to live and a visit to Schorem was on his bucket list… They gave him a haircut and a shave. “We were blown away by this guy’s positive vibe, he was actually joking about being sick.”

 

However, two weeks later his father came in to thank the barbers for his son died two days after the visit but he had a great time there. “We share lots of laughs in the barbershop but that day we shared tears. I’ll never forget the intensity of that moment”

 

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替好友剪髮點燃美髮興趣 藏在血液裡的美髮熱忱

正是這點點滴滴,讓Bertus深信自己選擇理髮這條道路是正確的決定。

至於他入行的起因,倒也是另一個有趣的故事…高中時,Bertus就是一個無所事事,每天玩滑板抽大麻的屁孩。一個晚上,他一樣無所事事的與三兩好友們待在家裡,突然其中一個朋友提議Bertus幫他把兩旁頭髮剃掉,剪一個龐克頭,於是Bertus拿出他爸爸的電推,這是他第一次的理髮經驗,「與其說我選擇了這份職業,不如說理髮因子其實一直潛藏在我的血液裡吧!」Bertus如此說。

 

How did Bertus become a barber is in fact another great story to tell.

“I guess you could say the job chose me, barbering is in my blood…” Bertus said. He was a punkrock kid in high school, pretty much screwing up everything. One night at his parents place, one of his friends asked Bertus to give him a Mohican (Mohawk) haircut. That was the first haircut Bertus ever did and the rest is history. “I loved the feeling of cutting hair and now 27 years later I love it as much as that first haircut”.

 

從美髮學校畢業後,Bertus成為髮型師,一次機會下更榮幸的擔任髮型大師Trevor Sorbie髮秀的開場,然而在與Trevor相處的一週後,Bertus卻突然有所體悟,「我永遠不可能向他們一樣,我對美髮的熱情絕對沒有理髮多,理髮才是讓我決心踏入這行業的關鍵。」就是從這一刻起,讓Bertus發現自己心之所向,直到27年後的現在,他對理髮的熱愛沒有一絲一毫的減少。

 

He made up his mind to become a hairdresser, and went to beauty school. After school, he became a hairdresser and had the chance to tour with Trevor Sorbie and Angelo Seminara. He got the opportunity to be the opener for Trevor’s big show and was on the same bus with him for a week. “It’s kinda weird…” he said, “I looked up to these people so much but on the other hand they made me realize I would never become as good as they were. It did make me realize why I went into this business in the first place though… Barbering…” That’s when Bertus decided to pick up the clippers and be a barber.

 

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專門的理髮學校 學而專精的大好機會

有鑑於在美髮學校的經歷,Bertus認為現在的美髮學校對理髮並不重視,課程內容過於廣泛,卻少了專精,因此除了Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier外,Bertus和Leen更設立專門的理髮學院,提供40週的基礎理髮修容課程、真人實操的進階課程和專業修鬍課程。讓有心想成為專業理髮師的年輕人有一個專門的學習管道。

 

While he was at the beauty school, he was one of the last students that were able to choose between being a "gents" hairdresser, a "dames" hairdresser or "unisex" hairdresser. Now the students in Netherland can only take both class including doing colors and perms. That gives Bertus and Leen the idea of opening an academy of teaching barbering. In the academy, they offer three courses: forty weeks course of basic techniques that come with the trade, shaving and cutting; three days advanced course that is working on real models and straight razor shaving course.

 

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持續精進技術才不會被時代淘汰

面對全球正掀起的這股理髮風潮,Bertus樂見每座城市都有屬於男士專門的空間,讓他們能夠自在的享受理髮服務。然而,在荷蘭與其他很多國家,並不需要專業證照就能開設理髮廳,理髮品質也因此良莠不齊,Bertus雖然感到擔憂,卻也指出,唯有好的技術經的起考驗,技術是騙不了人的,客人自然會有所選擇。

 

Bertus is happy to see barbershops popping up everywhere because every town, big or small should have one so the guys in town can choose wheter they want to go to a salon or a barbershop. However, in the Netherlands people don’t need any papers to open a barbershop though, everybody can become a barber or even open a barbershop which for them is a little frustrating. Yet they believe, “Whether you’re a bookbinder, a glassblower or a barber, you can’t cheat on your product, it’s either good or it’s not…” As the result, shops like that have actually made them raise the bar.

 

除了精進技術,營造舒適的環境,讓客人能享受在每一次的經驗是經營理髮廳的不二法門,Bertus相信這股熱潮不會輕易退燒,男士理髮絕對會再次於美髮產業佔有一席之地,「不要忘了男士理髮可是有著2000年的久遠歷史,即使有一天,熱潮冷卻,我們仍然會堅立在這裡,理髮、做自己。」

 

Talking about the future of barbering, Bertus has confident with it, “The barbershop is back in such a strong manner, don’t underestimate the true power of your shop though, as important as the haircut may seem, the whole feeling and experience weighs a lot heavier. And never forget, the barbershop has been around for over 2000 years, people just forgot about them but now we’re back and will never go away, once this whole trendy thing has blown over we’ll still just be cutting hair and throwing out some banter.”

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