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  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN MURPHY
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KEVIN MURPHY
  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN MURPHY
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Kevin Murphy,外景造型設計師的新指標!擁有無人可匹敵的獨門造型絕技與令人驚艷的豐富經驗,是各大時尚伸展台、國際流行雜誌與電影的髮型幕後操刀推手,更是帶領時尚潮流的造型大師!

擁有許多國際名流客戶與繁重外景造型工作的Kevin,在國際上備受好評,持續受邀為國際版時尚雜誌,像是Vogue、Harper’s Bazaar、Sports Illustrated、Marie Claire、Vanity Fair, Instyle, Rush以及GQ等,打造各種引領潮流的造型。同時,對於舞台造型相當有經驗的他,連續六年受邀擔任澳洲墨爾本春季時裝週MSFW的髮型總監。

對於外景造型擁有極大熱情與期望,Kevin以自身傲人的經驗與經歷創立了同名美髮品牌KEVIN.MURPHY,並且立即讓全世界的美髮人感受到渴望已久的造型張力、在一般消費者之間造成廣大的回響。現在,於世界各地主導流行趨勢的造型沙龍都可以看到KEVIN.MURPHY的產品。

天生的美髮師

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出身自美髮世家的Kevin Murphy,從小就認定自己流著美髮設計師的血液,因此一直將美髮視為他的天職。幼年時,看著母親與許多親戚從事著美髮工作,Kevin更深深被其所有的細節、技術與其中的變化所吸引,因此Kevin Murphy於1979年在澳洲墨爾本一家叫Smithers的沙龍,展開了他的美髮之路。

 

Kevin Murphy always wanted to be a hairdresser. He had many family members that were hairdressers, like his mother and cousin. So it seemed like a natural thing for he to do, and he also think it must be in his blood. Kevin has always been fascinated by hair and the way hair can be so dramatically altered, so he began hairdressing career in 1979 in Melbourne Australia at a salon called Smithers.

Kevin Murphy的驕傲

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Kevin Murphy所創造的造型總是充滿了舞台張力,細看其中技巧更讓人嘆為觀止。打造不一樣的髮型「結構」、創造不一樣的頭髮「律動」,正是Kevin Murphy備受矚目的原因之一。到目前為止,還沒有任何美髮教學明確的指出創造髮型結構的方式;打造不同於以往的蓬鬆髮型,仍是造型師們持續在研究的新穎造型技術。Kevin Murphy表示「不斷嘗試」非常重要,因為不同技巧與工具的使用,創造出來的髮型絕對大不同!而他主要的作法,則是先使用一般傳統的刮髮技巧為髮型創造出基底,並且嘗試使用各種不同的工具,來創造出不同的結構。

 

Kevin is known for his texture and movement, to create texture there is no guidebook as it is such a new thing. He used traditional back brushing techniques to create a base then you can experiment with tools to manipulate the hair to create different textures.

 

充滿故事的KEVIN.MURPHY

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Kevin Murphy曾經一度被醫師曾嚴重宣告必須中止美髮事業,因為他擁有極度敏感的肌膚,而市面上的美髮產品含有許多化學成分,迫使他必須長期使用強效類固醇藥膏來長期對抗皮膚炎的困擾。

因為實在太熱愛美髮!Kevin選擇不放棄,也因此創立了同名品牌KEVIN.MURPHY。不讓美髮師的雙手繼續受傷害,KEVIN.MURPHY全系列產品成分絕對天然,並且精選護膚產品所使用的成分,質地零負擔;由Kevin Murphy本人親自打造,KEVIN.MURPHY的每支產品皆充滿了Kevin親身的故事與經歷,絕對能讓每位設計師為設計師都感同身受!

Having very sensitive skin is the biggest problem in Kevin’s hairdressing career. Kevin was riddled with dermatitis and had to use very powerful steroid creams to manage it. His doctor told him that he should give up, but he loved hairdressing so much. As so, Kevin start to thinking how to stay in hairdressing in some ways, and it was a blessing as it forced him to make his own hair products.

成為大師的秘密

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「不斷的突破自我、創造不同」是Kevin認為身為美髮師必要的條件;你必須不斷的構思如何才能讓造型更前衛、更不同。Kevin大方分享,髮型的打底是造型創造的一大重點!只要稍稍使用不同的打底技巧,你絕對能發現令你驚豔的不同造型。

 

To be a master, you have to always push the boundaries of what you are doing, you always have to say how do I make this look more modern, how do I make it look new. Kevin finds that when he approaches the look by starting it in a different way, for example he might prep the hair differently to get a different look out of it.

 

此外Kevin認為,設計師是否擁有才華不是自己說了算,因由旁觀者來鑑定。美髮並不單純著重於技術,而是一個富有情緒與態度的專業;也因為美是非常主觀的東西,美髮不斷的進化,因此其觀念、甚至身處於美髮業的每一個人都必須不斷的改變。Kevin Murphy表示,只要對於任何事物都擁有自己的看法,或是擁有一眼就能被辨認的獨特風格,就是一位成功的美髮設計師!

 

Kevin think with hairdressing the talent is in the eyes of the beholder, because something you would like may not be what the person next door might like. He believes that hairdressing is a very complex and emotional career, and it is ever-changing attitudes change perception changes with each person. A good hairdresser has a point of view or a distinct style that can be recognized by others.

 

一談起創作靈感來源,Kevin表示生活中發生的大小事都能帶給他無限的想像,像是觀察著路上來來去去的人們,總是能讓他激發出許多不一樣的元素。同時,Kevin特別喜歡七0、八0年代時所拍攝的電影,因為在那些還沒有電腦可以做後製或特製的年代,你可以欣賞到當時人們最真實的樣貌; Kevin總是會去剖析所有出現在電影中的髮型,並且去構思其造型的做法,而這些過程能夠推動Kevin去嘗試各種不同的技巧。

 

Kevin gets most of his inspirations from everyday life. He is always staring at people in the street and watching people inspires him. Also, Kevin loves watching old movies from the 70’s and 80’s there was no computer generated images back then, so we get to really see what people used to look like. Furthermore, Kevin would like to dissect all the hairstyles in the movies and try to imagine how they got the hair to look like that, and that truly inspires him to have a different take on what he do

 

此外,作品風格相當鮮明的知名美髮設計師Ray Allington,讓當時還在沙宣美髮學院受訓時的Kevin Murphy留下了深刻的印象與影響。Kevin表示,當時從Ray的身上接受到非常嚴格的教育,而他的作品無論是在形狀或是線條上都與經典的沙宣風格相當不同,深深的激發Kevin努力去創造更多不一樣的東西。

 

Except observing people around him, Ray Allington was another big influence to Kevin as he was training at the Vidal Sassoon Academy in London. Kevin explained that Ray were very strict on how you finished the hair and his work was so flamboyant and in sharp contrast to the traditional Vidal Sassoon look; his images inspired Kevin to want more out of Hairdressing.

休息 可以走更遠的路

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對於創作,Kevin從不害怕缺乏靈感!在大量釋出能量後覺得有點累或是匱乏是難免的,但他表示「稍作休息,就又可以走更遠的路」;當面對這樣的狀況Kevin就會選擇重返大自然休息,沐浴在天然環境中重新整頓自己,他相信休息過後靈感一定會再慢慢湧出。

 

Losing inspirations that is the thing that would never happened to Kevin Murphy. Kevin states that hairdressers can burn out when you work too much, and that can feel like you have no creativity left. Under those circumstances Kevin would take some time off and go and sit in the jungle to refresh him and the creativity will flow out of him again

 

比賽,是Kevin鼓勵每位設計師一定要積極參與的活動。設計師不能一昧的埋頭創作,而要大膽的讓大家看到你的作品,同時聆聽別人的批評指教,因為這是能夠隨時評量自己的方式,也是能夠促使你更努力、變得更好的不二法則。

 

Talking about competition, Kevin think it is the thing that every hairdressers must to do. He explains that it is necessary to put your work out for people to look at and critique your work. it would definitely make you try harder to be better and keeps you on your toes as you are only as good as your last hair-doo.

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