- PHOTOGRAPHY BY Richard Ashforth
- POSTED
* 1980’s - 從小生長於英國北部的城市Sheffield,八0時期,許多當地知名樂團,像是Cabaret Voltaire、The Human League等,的創作與行事作風影響了整個城市,而Richard也因此深受影響,並對音樂與流行時尚培養出極大的興趣。
* 1985 – 受到母親的美髮設計師Robert Taylor的賞識獲得第一份正式工作,並在基礎技術,像是創造髮型的平衡感、輪廓及美感等,扎下相當穩的基礎,至今Richard仍相當感謝從Robert身上所學習到的一切。
* 1987 - 移居倫敦至沙宣工作,並受到當時沙宣作品集的啟發,創造了〝電燈泡頭〞,為八0時期的創作寫下了極具象徵性的紀錄。
* 1990 - 開始密切的與Tim Hartley、Annie Humphrie及Mark Hayes等沙宣大師級人物一同工作,並獲得了許多機會以及寶貴的經歷。
* 1995 -收到由Vidal Sassoon維達沙宣大師親筆寫的信,讚賞Richard的創作天分。
* Late 90's - 多次與Vidal Sassoon大師一同工作,無論是工作態度或是專業技術等都深受Vidal Sassoon大師的影響,每次與Vidal Sassoon大師的相處機會也如同特權般的令他開心。
* 2005 - 對於Richard意義非凡的一年,首創Saco,並從過程中學習到許多寶貴的經驗,並也達成許多人生中的重大目標。
* 2006 - Saco同時於倫敦及加拿大蒙特婁開幕
* 2010 - Saco首度參與全英國最大的專業美髮展Salon International,再次成功地打響Saco的名聲,並受到更多人的注視。
* 2012 - 由Richard一手策畫的非主流美髮秀「NOISE」誕生,跳脫傳統束縛、號召世界各地的大師級人物一同共襄盛舉,大玩前衛創意,勇敢挑戰一切未知數,儘管無法預測究竟會有多少觀眾、是否能受青睞,並成功的為美髮界寫下傳奇的一夜。
原本預計目標攻讀流行時尚及音樂,Richard少年時期一直抱有成為〝搖滾英雄〞與〝服裝設計師〞的夢想,卻只因在升大學前的gap year期間聽到父親的一句話〝美髮感覺似乎很有趣〞並期望他能有分正當的工作,Richard轉而拾起剪刀一腳踏進美髮圈,並深深愛上美髮專業相關的一切,從業至今將近30年,Richard仍持續的付出自己的熱情與才華,從未回頭看。
Expecting himself to be a rock star, or failing that make clothes, Richard always had a keen interest in all sides of fashion and found hairdressing slightly by accident – just because his father told him that he had to get a job and hairdressing looked great fun when he took a gap year before going to study fashion at University to pursue musical ambitions - so that's how it started! And Richard soon fell in love with the job and the profession. He didn't ever return to University and here he still is - doing hair!
看到Richard站上任何舞台時,舉手頭足總是散發無限魅力與自信,實在令人難以想像他剛起步學習的階段究竟是什麼模樣?Richard表示,一開始學習美髮Richard並未接觸任何令人驚豔的高難度技巧,而單純、持續的著重於基本功的練習、培養美感與平衡感;也曾因為對於美髮工具的不了解,無法精準掌握操作因而在創作上受到了限制而長時間的感到沮喪,他笑說,〝所幸最後我征服了剪刀,現在它就如同我的左右手〞。1987年,Richard在雜誌上欣賞到Sassoon當時作品集並受到了激發,〝有如在頭上裝了電燈泡,那就是我想要的!〞也因此在他的創作生涯中紀錄了電燈泡頭時期。
In 1987, Richard was inspired by a Sassoon collection in a magazine which was like a light bulb going on in his head, and found out THAT was what he wanted to be able to do!. Richard’s main memory of starting as a hairdresser was being taught to understand shape and balance but never a strong technique, and he was frustrated for a long time about not understanding the mechanic of shape creation when he was a young trainee. 〝Thankfully I got it sorted〞he said.
「先坐穩再做大」這是Richard給予有理想抱負、期望能開創自己事業的美髮人的建言,將一切簡單化,專注於眼前所設立的目標,打造強健的基礎實力。Richard儘管有了今天的成就,依然感激他的第一位雇主Robert Taylor讓他扎下了深厚的基礎功、了解在髮型創作時如何維持所有細節的平衡、保有美感與完整度;曾於沙宣學習、工作長達20年之久,Richard更受到Tim Hartley、Mark Hayes、Annie Humphreys以及Vidal Sassoon大師本人在創作上的薰陶,而全球的流行時尚、藝術與音樂等也持續激發Richard創造出更多元的作品。
〝Start small and build from the ground up〞, no matter what your goal is, Richard gave a simple but useful advice - Be very realistic and focused on what you want to achieve. Until now, Richard still expressed his gratitude to his first employer, Robert Taylor, for showing him how to understand balance and finish and also many people at Sassoon (he was there for almost 20 years!) from Tim, Mark, Annie and of course - Vidal himself. And lots of external influences also from the worlds of fashion, art, music, etc., also gave him great inspiration.
「了解自己要什麼」這是Richard成功的最高機密,當一切都準備好了,成功就會很自然的發生,但依然得保有隨時可能會失敗的心理準備、勇於冒險,這也是努力的途中最困難但也最重要的事。Richard表示,成功的美髮師必須「為顧客量身打造最適合的髮型」,以多元的角度 (觀察客人的臉型、?質、甚至生活態度) 、客觀的思考每位顧客的需求,並透過正確的操作步驟,有效率的創造出最完美的髮型,而這也是Richard及Saco創意團隊與學院所重視的首要任務。
To be a successful hairdresser, Richard believe that it's necessary to stay in touch with yourself - when things happen naturally, there always the most successful. Also, it’s so important to be prepared to take risks and be prepared to fail though it is hard things to do, especially when you have expectations to fulfill.?
〝A good hairdresser must has a sympathetic eye for the individual, prefers to listen rather than speak and enjoys learning and sharing knowledge〞, Richard’s strongest feeling is to always make a shape suitable to the individual. Even the most conceptual shape should work with a person’s bone structure, hair texture and even lifestyle – it’s number one for him and all the team at Saco. They teach how to look at a person in a very objective way and then how to follow certain steps that ensure a successful, suitable result on all our courses.
Richard表示,無論身處於世界哪一個角落,只要抬起頭、張大雙眼、用心體會身活周遭所有細節,任何人、事、物都是激發創作的最佳元素,而這同時也是拓展自身視野的最佳方法,因為只要用心,所有事物都將煥然一新。此外,對於Richard而言,興趣的培養也相當重要,像是音樂、藝術等也都能隨時帶給他各種豐富的感受。
但沒有創作靈感在所難免,除了不斷的嘗試、接收任何可能性之外,與團隊一同合作、透過成員們彼此之間的交流更是激發創意的絕佳方式,而這也是Saco團隊一直以來在創作上的不二法則。
Many, many places. I always try to walk around with my head-up and eyes-open, absorbing your surroundings is always the best way to expand your view of the world and become open to 'the new'. I do have specific interests too; I love music and the arts and find comfort and inspiration in many areas.
It happens…the best way is to try and stay open and not go looking for ideas. Working as a team is definitely a great way to keep ideas generating and a vital source of our work at Saco.
不跟隨外界的動向而期望以自己的步伐走出自己的路,近期內鮮少看見Richard投入比賽與他人公開競爭,因為他堅信只有自己才了解自己,無須透過別人的眼光來證明什麼。但Richard也同時表示,比賽是讓大家看見自己的最佳方式,無可否認;Saco自成立後陸續參加了許多攝影作品比賽,也成功的受到各方青睞、並獲得許多機會,讓Saco漸漸嶄露頭角,讓Richard非常感謝。Richard依然非常鼓勵美髮人投入比賽,因為這是一個無須花大錢又能推動自己創作的好方法。
For many years, Richard ignored competitions and followed his own path - not feeling the need to compete with others. However, whilst he don't feel a need to be judged against others for confirmation of what he do - he realise that hairdressing industry has changed and competitions are definitely a great way to get your work seen and recognised. Since starting Saco, the team have entered many competitions (photographic based) and thankfully found success on several occasions, and he stated that he would definitely encourage stylists to get into competitions, as it has really helped Saco promote the work and he’s grateful for that. And he also believed that competition is a great creative outlet regardless of the result and doesn't have to be ridiculously expensive.
Richard於2005年建立了Saco團隊,旗下有沙龍與學院,橫跨歐、美大陸,在英國、法國、俄羅斯及加拿大各有據點,而在Saco團隊中,無論是新稅設計師或是資深美髮人,所有的成員都有專屬的職責與角色,並朝著一至的目標努力。對於未來總是滿腹理想的Richard,下一步,他期望能夠帶領Saco前進亞洲,要以Saco對於美髮的熱忱與專業創造更不一樣的亞洲美學。
Established in 2005, Saco academy and salon today have great reputation in the industry, and the branches are across the world from Europe to North America. They have a certain expectation of all the teams, from the youngest person to the most senior, everybody knows and understands their responsibilities both to their own role and to one another.?
Richard stated that the team is always looking ahead, and they would definitely love to spend more time in Asia in the future to share their great passion, specialty and working experience, and he truly think what they do is aligned with an Asian aesthetic.
Saco將旗下學院與沙龍緊密連結, Richard期望Saco所有的教學都能結合實際操作、讓指導者與學員隨時都能保有臨場感,而這也是Saco如此獨特的其中秘密。Saco相當重視學員需求,並因應其需求持續改革、創新,規劃出多元的課程,將讓總是好學的美髮人隨時掌握最新的技術與流行趨勢。近期,Saco位於法國巴黎的學院更推出外景拍攝課程,由具有豐富外景工作經歷的Saco團員親自指導,從世界各的外景造型工作中,像是雜誌拍攝或是時尚伸展台等,擷取出最新的流行趨勢與技術,要讓所有學員在課程的最後一天創造出最完美的攝影作品。
Attached the academies ato salons, Saco believes this could create a very unique perspective, which allows the instructors to stay in touch with 'real' salon work and most importantly, understand the needs of our students. Saco has a wide range of courses, some specific to certain locations and they are always looking to improve and develop new educational experiences. Saco’s latest course set to launch in Paris this Spring 'Editorial Course' which is focused on the world of session styling from the world of runways and magazines – as they have several team members that work on the major shows and publications and this course focuses on the world of fashion, culminating in a photographic shoot on the final day!
- The Philosophy of Andy Warhol - From A to B and back again
- 80 Challenges to sharpen your design skills - Creative Workshop
- The Design Book - Phaidon
- Saco Foundations - Due in print early Spring 2014