- TEXT BY Angel Chou
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rob Mason
- POSTED 2017/01/01
和 Rob Mason 交手幾次,不難發現他對所有事物都有極高的要求,連剪髮都幾經思量,從臉型、從髮質,考量完各個方面才能完成一款髮型。Rob 大學時對任何事情都不感興趣,除了美髮:「我當時的女友常常擔任髮廊的模特兒,我很願意花時間在旁邊等她,看設計師整理她的頭髮。」Rob 很喜歡髮型師能獨立工作,一對一的面對客人並解決他們的困難,「雖然成為髮型師的過程很辛苦,但是我就是那種一產生興趣,就會瘋狂鞭策自己成為第一名的人!」
在現場工作十餘年後,Rob 似乎擁有了所有髮型師夢寐以求的一切,穩定的客源、主管級的職位,但是一陣倦怠感和挫敗感席捲而來,讓他開始思考未來的方向。Rob 回憶:「我換過一間又一間的沙龍,也用過無數個品牌的產品,卻沒有任何一個產品,能滿足客人的需求。當客人跟我需求霧面造型時,我只能盡力給他一款效能最接近的產品,但我總是擺脫不了在呼攏他們的感覺。」最終,一再累積的挫折感迫使 Rob 做出重大決定,他決定捲起袖子自己做產品。
"The defining moment for me came at the peak in my hairdressing career where I seemingly had everything, a long client list and the most senior position at the salon, but it wasn't what I loved or my priority,""After 10 plus years of hairdressing there was never a product that stood out and did what I wanted it to do. As I changed salons, there would be new brands which I would hate and made me feel like I was robbing the customer. They would want something that was matte and I would give them something that was kind of matte, because that was all we had.”He said. The frustration pushed him to the point where he needed to make his own product because no one had been capable to listen to the customer and answer their frustration.
「就如同我稍早提到,我是一個一旦執著於某件事,就會努力做到最頂尖的人。於是我撇下一切,去追求我真正的夢想,創造我理想中的產品,然後就一路進行到現在!」搭配著在椅子上滑行的動作,Rob如此說道。
"So I put my balls on the line and got up walked away and pursued my true passion, to create products that work. And away I went." *swings on chair*
他開始鑽研化學和毛囊學,替每一位客人的頭皮拍攝微距照片,因此發現了過去使用的產品因為運用廉價和不健康的成分,導致毛囊阻塞,不但沒有發揮產品號稱的效益,反倒危害了頭皮健康。Rob 也尋求專業建議,與澳洲知名的化妝品化學家 Richard Parker 合作,共同研發產品,談到 Richard Parker,Rob 滿心感謝的表示:「他是第一個投資我、無條件支持我的人!」
Embarking on a course of study in Haircare Science and working with renowned Australian Cosmetic Chemist Richard Parker who is the original investor and "the first person to truly back me" says Rob. He started getting focused on the chemistry and dermatology and realized that all of the products that he was using, once broken down were so basic and cheap it clogs up the skin and the scalp and don't do what they are meant to do.
雖然 Rob 已經找到了問題的癥結點,也找到了解決方案,但研發產品畢竟不是件簡單的事。男仕不需要一萬種不同功能的商品,他們的需求很簡單,就是霧面、亮面和清潔,從一組配方的誕生到不斷試驗與改良,每一個步驟都能花費數個月的時間。
"The process, in its simplest form is to come up with a problem and then focus on fixing it. Men don't need billions of products. Matte, shine and cleanse, which is what we have. I would literally start from scratch, begin with a formula and then start testing it during haircuts. "
「每一天我不是在現場剪髮試驗產品效能,就是在實驗室埋頭苦幹。」Rob 分享自己的目標,就是要幾乎完美的模仿頭皮的自然油脂,讓所有產品都能以天然的成分達到 Rob 對產品的高期待。他坦言,最困難的是調配出一個能夠量產的配方:「說實話,我花了整整三年才找到對的配方!」
"It seemed like a problem that was so easily fixed when I'm not cutting hair I'm in the lab tinkering about. It's my goal to turn all that on its head with my ormulations, which respect, mimic and nurture the unique biochemistry of the hair and scalp." Rob talks about the hardest part of the process,"to create an amazing formula that I could produce on mass, it honestly took three years for me to get one formula that was right. I had to manipulate them constantly to get what I wanted from the product so it was bang on."
MORRIS MOTLEY 是一個信念 一個帶起復興的改變當 Rob 再也受不了剪髮與實驗不能並行,一個兼具實驗室和工作室的空間似乎是最棒的解決方法,這個想法催生了MORRIS MOTLEY的誕生:「我終於能夠隨時依據眼前的客人,試驗最新的配方,甚至在獲得客人反饋後,只要轉身就能調整配方。」想起這些甘願當白老鼠的客人,Rob 再次感激地說道:「這些客人就像我的家人一樣,他們陪我一起經歷我生涯中的每一個精彩片段,我很開心能有這群男仕參與在產品製作的過程裡!」當這一切還只是 Rob 腦海中渾沌不明的一個小小想法時,是他的伴侶 Madelene Kadziela 幫他整合出MORRIS MOTLEY的核心理念:「MORRIS MOTLEY不只是一間理髮廳或是一個品牌,我期許它能成為一場復興運動,喚起大家開始重視男仕理髮的精準度,以及男仕產品應該要有的水準。」
"I wanted to create a brand and a movement which involved everyone, not just give something a title. My partner and our Creative Director Madelene Kadziela took the truth and authenticity from the chaos that no one could understand and absorbed everything into this formula which is now MORRIS MOTLEY. It about is perfection and what I want to be."
MORRIS MOTLEY 精準的品牌理念同樣貫徹於 Rob 的剪髮技巧,在過去的十年裡,他持續精進自己的技術,每一次的剪裁都依據客人臉部結構設計,能設計出適合、且符合客人需求的髮型:「我沒有要評論任何人的意思,但無論是復古油頭風格或是理髮廳本身的裝潢特色,這幾年來都大同小異。在MORRIS
MOTLEY,我們始終保有自己的個人風格,不追隨潮流,我們設計的絕對是具有吸引力而且能夠讓產品發揮最大效能的髮型!」Rob 的自信洋溢於臉上。
他接著說到:「大部分的男性最帥的時候,就是頭髮有點亂亂的、沒那麼完美的樣子!因為這是最自然的一面,也是我們希望客人能展現的一面。」
Over 10 years Rob has honed his skills in facial analysis and explored new and classic barbering techniques required to achieve clean, masculine styles – the blueprint for his signature brand of custom men's cutting and styling."All these barber shops just copy each other I'm not out to offend anyone but, it's just about being authentic. We do haircuts that make men look attractive and make products that work." Again he says, "Not try and reproduce something but to cut to suit the person, because most men look better without their hair done. Just make people look good, logical, right?"
看著自己一手打造的帝國,Rob 滿意地說道:「世界上沒有一個品牌或是理髮廳在做與我們相同的事,雖然這樣說有點驕傲,但是目前的MORRIS MOTLEY的確沒有任何競爭對手!」MORRIS MOTLEY的獨特不僅來自產品或是技術,其背後有更大的原因:「我們的靈感絕對不只來自於頭髮或是美髮產業本身,而是更遠大的來自時尚、音樂甚至是 UFC 格鬥,所有周遭的事物綜合起來成為了創作靈感!雖然講起來很好笑,你們一定想說格鬥和理髮到底有什麼關聯,不過換個角度想,這兩者同樣講求技術,沒有技術就會被淘汰,不是嗎?」
"There is nothing in the world even close to what we do, and I have nothing but respect for everyone else but there are no competitors.MORRIS MOTLEY is brand and a movement that was influenced by everything but hair and hair dressing, it remains unique by not focusing on what everyone else is doing and focusing on larger influences, such as UFC, fashion and music which is a weird mix but then you get a haircut as well, and that's actually the truth"
身為工作狂,Rob 的兩個女兒是他在忙碌中的避風港,總是能在他個人的社群媒體上,看到他與兩個小孩純真的互動。「她們促使我成為更好的人,也是我執意讓MORRIS MOTLEY成為一個穩定品牌的動力。」才剛分享完如此感性的一面,Rob 又接口說:「畢竟養小孩太貴了,MORRIS MOTLEY不只要成功,還要能賺大錢!」Rob 希望能與全球頂尖的理髮師合作,不但重視他們的才華,更以他號稱「地表最強男仕產品」支持他們的工作。帶著強大的企圖心,Rob 宣布自己即將進軍亞洲市場:「這會是我們踏出澳洲的第一站,這是一座信號台,向全世界宣告MORRIS MOTLEY的計畫。」
Rob then shares his next plan for MORRIS MOTLEY,"I want to take over the premium grooming market in Asia, in under a year *smirks*. I want to work with the best haircutters, support them and add value to their work by providing them with the best men's grooming products on the planet. Asia has been like a beacon for me, I want to create a network that supports our movement and what MORRIS MOTLEY is."