- TEXT BY Angel Chou
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY LWPR
- POSTED 2017/01/01
「每一天的自己都比昨天更進步,是每一個早晨敦促我起床的念頭,在我漫長的美髮生涯裡,精進我已知的技術固然重要,但是探索那未知的領域、盡情的發揮創意去塑造前所未見的髮型和技術才是我心之所向,正是這個這股熱忱在這50年裡帶領我不斷突破、創新。」Trevor Sorbie說道。
“The desire to be a better hairdresser than I was yesterday is what gets me out of bed in the morning. What I've loved in my whole hairdressing career, apart from learning what I learnt, was more importantly learning what I didn't know, trying to be creative with hair to do things that I have never seen before with hair. That's what has kept me interested in my craft for 50 years and motivated me.” Trevor Sorbie
除了Vidal Sassoon以外,英國美髮界最知名的人物絕非Trevor Sorbie莫屬,曾四次奪下英國年度最佳髮型師,他的得獎紀錄不僅最輝煌,數量也堪稱全球之冠;就連電視益智節目《Who Wants to be a Millionaire》和《The Weakest Link》都曾以Trevor成功的事業作為題目;然而Trevor Sorbie的影響力卻不僅限於美髮產業,他致力慈善工作,透過創辦My New Hair組織幫助癌症婦女,運用自己的長才回饋社會。
在他長達50年的美髮生涯裡,最讓他感到驕傲的一刻,莫過於在2004年從英國女王的手中獲頒員佐勳章M.B.E(Member of Most Excellent Order of the British Empire):「當我剛踏入這個行業時,從來沒有想過有一天我竟然能見到英國女王,甚至從她的手中接下這般殊榮!沒有任何比這更棒的經驗了!」他說道。
Trevor Sorbie’s name is synonymous with pioneering hairdressing throughout the industry and around the world. “Without doubt” he says, “the biggest highlight of my career so far has to be receiving my M.B.E in 2004 at Buckingham Palace from Her Majesty the Queen. When I started in hairdressing I never thought for one moment that I would be honored by the Queen of Great Britain, it doesn’t get any better than that.”
From barbershop to Buckingham Palace to collect his MBE, he is the hair stylist who has won more awards than any other.
Trevor誕生在蘇格蘭佩利斯的一個理髮世家,他的父親和祖父都是當地知名的理髮師,即使從小耳濡目染,成為髮型師卻不是他的首選:「我曾夢想成為藝術家,直到我15歲時輟學,沒有學歷、沒有文憑。在不知道未來該何去何從時,我父親建議我到理髮廳幫忙。」也許是潛藏在家族基因裡的天份,Trevor在短短三個月後,竟然已經開始拿剪刀替客人剪髮。
Being the son and grandson of barbers, Trevor was born in Paisley, Scotland in 1949.
“I always wanted to be an artist but left school at the age of 15 with no qualifications. My dad said to me to come and work in his barbershop and after 3 months I was cutting people’s hair.” He says.
五年後,Trevor對美髮學問的渴求驅使他前往專業美髮學校進修,並於1972年畢業後在倫敦Vidal Sassoon找到第一份正式的工作。正值Sassoon用一把剪刀改變時尚界的輝煌年代,Trevor跟著Sassoon一起服務了名設計師Mary Quant、Mia Farrow和無數型男潮女,更在極短的時間內被任命為藝術總監,親自替Rex Harrison和Paul McCartney等知名人士做造型。Sassoon曾在回憶錄中提到:「Trevor傑出的表現來自於他精湛的技術與新穎的想法。」Trevor也是少數幾位被Sassoon寫進回憶錄的髮型師。
He worked there for 5 years, and then left to take a six-month course at the Richard Henry School of Hairdressing. In 1972 shortly after graduating, he landed a job at Vidal Sassoon in London. Here Trevor pioneered the new geometric look sported by style icons such as Mary Quant and Mia Farrow, where clients included pop stars, models and society girls. Vidal Sassoon quickly made Sorbie his Artistic Director, styling the likes of Rex Harrison and Paul McCartney.
講起恩師,Trevor將Sassoon視為英雄,如此說道:「Sassoon的創意是多麼的顛覆時代,開啟了現代美髮的大門,當他談論起美髮時的熱忱深深感動著我!」這段時間的薰陶實實在在的啟發了Trevor日後的美髮之路。
Trevor cites Vidal as his hero, saying, “his ideas were revolutionary, and he spoke about hair with such passion and excitement, I was totally inspired” - while Vidal acknowledges Trevor’s career as “brilliant” thanks to his combination of “original thinking with superb technical ability”, and he is one of the noted hairdressers name-checked in Sassoon’s biography.
Trevor常說:「成功來自良好的教育。」曾受到Sassoon本人的教導,他將同樣的熱忱傳承給下一代,培育出許多業界知名大師,例如:Eugene Souleiman和剛獲得2016年英國最佳髮型師的Angelo Seminara。
One of Trevor’s old sayings is ‘If you are taught well, you become good.’ Having worked with Vidal Sassoon himself, he in turn has trained the likes of session stylist Eugene Souleiman and fellow British Hairdresser of the Year winner Angelo Seminara.
Trevor深信,無論你在這個行業待了多少年,永遠都有值得學習的事,也永遠都有進步的空間。他的教育理念也立基於此:「學無止盡,在教導的過程中也是一種學習,這鼓舞我每天都想傳揚美髮的美好,成為我與教育團隊的核心理念。」
Trevor’s personal philosophy on education is that no matter how long you’ve been in your profession, you never stop learning or improving. He explains, “It is this thought and the desire to share our extensive expertise that is at the heart of our team’s education ethos. It doesn’t matter if you’ve been in the business for 10 minutes or 10 years, all our stylists and technicians go through the same training process with a final test marked by myself at the end.”
現在Trevor在全球共有兩間學院,分別位於倫敦與上海,將學院設在地球的東西兩端,Trevor表示,他始終希望自己的事業能往國際發展,擁有一間在亞洲的學院更能幫助他們深入亞洲市場。談起東西方髮型師的不同,他提到文化差異還是最主要的困難:「亞洲髮型師對年代和文化的認知與我們不同,這反而成為他們的強項,能夠不受拘束的走出自己的風格!」
Having his own academies in London and Shanghai, Trevor thinks it is important that they have a base on the other side of the world to work from since they have always been a company that worked internationally.
To point out the difference between Asian hairdressers and Western hairdressers, he credits it to culture, “The disadvantage is that they are not exposed to the Western Culture. But turning a negative into a positive means they can create their own identity.”
英國五間Trevor Sorbie同名沙龍延攬世界各地的傑出髮型師,他們在各大領域發光發熱,談起自己的經營方針,Trevor認為經營沙龍與身為一個設計師其實並沒有很大的差別:「無論是哪一個身分,都會有高低起伏,學會在低谷時正視困難、努力奮鬥;在高峰時好好享受人生,這些片刻終將塑造你成為一位更好的髮型師、更棒的經營者。」
His 5 UK salons, in London’s Covent Garden, Brighton, Manchester, Hampstead and Richmond attract the very best hairdressers in the world, who have developed a reputation for being industry leaders. Sharing his best tips on how to run a salon, he says, “In business or just being a hairdresser there’s always ups and downs. The down sides are where you have to battle through the problem at hand. The upsides, enjoy them! Both ups and downs will make you a better hairdresser.”
縱然有著如此成功的事業版圖,Trevor仍然腳踏實地,沒有忘記自己的初衷,他堅持「美髮,是為了每個人」,即使他創作過許多時尚前衛的造型,也服務許多明星客戶,但他仍然期許自己同樣能為一般消費者創作平易近人的髮型,讓每一位女性都能因為新的髮型能重新獲得自信、了解自己的美麗。
Despite his fame and international reputation, Trevor has never lost the “common touch” and remains true to his roots. Refreshingly candid and down-to-earth, Trevor firmly believes in what he describes as “real hair, for real people.” His thinking behind this philosophy is that although his artistic work is an all-consuming passion, and he still greatly values his celebrity clientele, he also wants to create wonderfully wearable styles for ordinary people, and make women feel and look great and truly beautiful and confident.
這個想法忠實的反映在他所成立的My New Hair組織。當Trevor陪伴家中罹癌成員度過化療時期後,他有感而發,於2006年6月創辦My New Hair非營利組織,立志幫助飽受化療所苦的女性重新建立自信。他形容這項善舉為「我所能給予社會的回饋」,他將大部分的時間投注在客製化假髮的設計上,更與國際知名髮品L’Oréal Professionnel合作,訓練更多專業髮型師一起提供這項獨特的服務。
This has never been truer than in his latest crusade – “My New Hair”. Inspired by his own experience of helping a family member during cancer treatment, Trevor Sorbie launched his charity “My New Hair” as a not-for-profit organization in June 2006. Trevor describe it as a “rewarding service I can offer”. Trevor now dedicates much of his time to both offering advice, and a wig customization service, to clients suffering medical hair loss, and organizing seminars with L’Oréal Professionnel to train other hairdressers to also offer this unique service around the country.
2009年10月,Trevor受邀與英國首相會面,慶祝英國衛生服務部與My New Hair的正式合作,透過政府的幫忙,Trevor獲得更多的資源幫助癌症患者,也能培訓更多的髮型師一同加入公益行列。他表示,L’Oréal Professionnel希望能將My New Hair的範圍擴大至世界各地,Trevor也樂見其成,盼望在未來能觸及更多需要幫助的病友,運用自己的一技之長改變她們的生命。
In October 2009 Trevor was invited to meet the British Prime Minister at Number 10 Downing Street to celebrate his work with My New Hair and announce the provision of Department of Health funding to support the “My New Hair” team in extending and expanding the programme to help cancer survivors, hairdressers and NHS staff work together during hair re-growth following treatment. L’Oréal Professionnel wants to take the charity internationally as Trevor hoping to offer the service to more and more people.
身為備受尊敬的前輩,Trevor的豐功偉業名留青史,無論是曾經創造出風型一時的髮型,例如:The Wedge、The Chop或是The Scrunch;又或是不勝枚舉的得獎記錄,面對這些成就,Trevor謙虛的表示:「我從來不認為自己是一位發明者,我只是從錯誤中學習,不斷改進。每次的創作,我都從身邊獨特、偶然的意外裡尋找靈感,這些美好的片段在歷史中留下一頁篇章。」
Pioneer of cuts and styling techniques such as The Wedge, The Chop and The Scrunch, Trevor Sorbie has won the coveted British Hairdresser of the Year title an unrivalled four times.
“I don’t see myself as an inventor of styles but creating mistakes that have worked. When I was working on shoots and shows I was always searching for something different and sometimes accidents happen in your favor, which go on to make hairdressing history.” Humbly he says.