受全球新冠病毒疫情影響，宅經濟興起，教育事業轉向線上服務，這期我們將帶來Vivienne Mackinder，美髮數位教育的先驅人物，並在高端時尚圈佔有舉足輕重的地位。

Under the Covid-19 pandemic, Home Economic has risen, and education industry has turned to online services as well. In this issue, we bring you Vivienne Mackinder, the pioneer in digital hairdressing education with a pivotal position in the high-end fashion.

20年前，Vivienne Mackinder創辦美髮數位教學平台Hair Designer TV，至今有900多部專業線上教程，那是個網路不普及、iphone尚未問世、Youtube還沒出生的年代，因Hair Designer TV受益的髮型師遍及全球。

Vivienne曾在Sassoon、Trevor Sorbie學院任教，她所成就的學生，包括現任Sassoon創意總監Mark Hayes、Wella教育總監Steven Moody、Salon News Asia前幾期大師面對面單元人物Aveda副總裁Antoinette Beenders，還有Schwarzkopf 藝術總監Damien Carney，這些首屈一指的領袖大師，只是她一小部分的學生而已。

Twenty years ago, Vivienne Mackinder founded Hair Designer TV, a digital teaching platform for hairdressing, where now providing more than 900 professional online tutorials. At that time, the Internet was not popular, IPhone was not yet advent, and Youtube was not even born. There’ve been tons of hairstylists benefited from Hair Designer TV all around the world.

Throughout Vivienne’s extensive career, she created training systems for two iconic companies – Vidal Sassoon’s and International icon, Trevor Sorbie in London. Many of her former students have gone on to become icons and brilliant successful stars, including Mark Hayes, Creative Director of Sassoon; Steven Moody, Educational Director at Wella; Antoinette Beenders, Creative Director of Aveda; and Damien Carney, Creative Director for Schwarzkopf, just to name a few.

談到時尚圈，人們總會提到龐克教母Vivienne Westwood！而多年來這英國國寶級高級訂製服品牌的時尚秀，主領髮型師一直是Vivienne Mackinder！Vivienne也是北美美髮組織InterCoiffure Canada-America時尚總監，能常在巴黎、倫敦、紐約時裝周看見她的身影，她也為 VH1、MTV、奧斯卡大獎的嘉賓製作造型。Vivienne得過的獎項不勝其數，高達7次的美國NAHA大獎、AIPP最佳商業造型獎、InterCoiffure榮譽藝術大獎、愛爾蘭美髮組織國際ICON大獎…除此之外，她還是I’m Not Just a Hairdresser（我不只是一位髮型師）紀錄片四部曲的製作人兼導演。

When it comes to fashion industry, people always mention the godmother of punk Vivienne Westwood! Vivienne Mackinder has worked as the key hairdresser behind the scenes at Vivienne Westwood fashion show for many years. She is also the fashion director of InterCoiffure Canada-America. She is often seen in Paris, London, and New York Fashion Week and also style the hair for guests of VH1, MTV, Oscar Awards. Vivienne has won many awards, including astonishing 7 TIME WINNER of the North American Hairdresser Awards, AIPP Best Commercial Award, InterCoiffure's Visionary Artist, International ICON Award by Irish Hairdressing Federatio, etc. In addition, she is also the producer and director in documentary film series “I'm Not Just a Hairdresser”.

Vivienne小時候是一位舞者，常在倫敦的劇院表演，學舞過程中，她發現自己對於上場前穿舞衣、化妝這些事，更有熱情，18歲時決定轉戰幕後，便進入倫敦時尚學院，逐漸地熱衷於髮型時尚。趁著假期，她到沙宣學院修課，有次學院的人找上她，並邀請她大學畢業後回到沙宣工作，這令Vivienne又驚又喜！畢業後，她很快地拿到進入BBC幫名人做造型的工作機會，不過她沒有選擇走進人人稱羨的電視台，而是回到沙宣當學徒、在髮廊工作，後來當上沙宣學院的老師、開始工作坊、作秀，並在年僅23歲時當上沙宣學院藝術總監。

Vivienne was a dancer when she was young. She often performed in theaters in London. While learning to dance, she found she was more enthusiastic about watching people dressed up in costumes and totally transformed by makeup and hairstyles. Vivienne went behind the scenes and studied in fashion at London College of Fashion when she was 18, gradually developing her passion for hairstyling profession.

When Vivienne took courses in Sassoon Academy during holidays, a person from Sassoon approached her and invited her to work in Sassoon after graduating from college. This made Vivienne very surprised and happy! After Vivienne graduated, she was immediately offered a job at BBC to be the hairstylist for celebrities, but she did not choose to enter TV station where most people were eager to work; instead, she returned to Sassoon as an apprentice and worked in a hair salon. She later became a teacher at Sassoon Academy, started to run shows and seminars around the world. Eventually, she became an artistic director at only 23.

20年前就開始數位教育是一件很瘋狂的事！當時網路不發達，Vivienne就忙著錄教學影片，她學著拍照、錄影、編輯影片，就像現在Youtuber在做的事情。這想法，是因當時她常去不同地方辦工作坊，每當離開一座城市，她就思考那些髮型師們回去後是否會落實她在台上的教學？他們有問題該怎麼辦？因此Vivienne想出了一個辦法，拍教學影片，那麼學生就可以不斷複習美髮技巧。因為網際網路她也觸及到世界各地的學生，Vivienne將Hair Designer TV視為自己職涯最重要的成就，她獲得美國NAHA終身成就獎，美髮圈至高無上的殊榮。

It seems to be crazy to start digital education 20 years ago! The Internet was underdeveloped at that time, but Vivienne was already busy for photo shooting, filming and editing, just like what Youtubers are doing now. This idea struck her when she was running the workshop around the world. " When I leave, what happens? Do the people carry on with their learning and their studying? What if they have problems?” she wondered. Vivienne came up with the idea to make videos so that students could keep reviewing hairdressing techniques. She could even reach to the students from the globe through Internet. Vivienne regarded Hair Designer TV as the most important achievement in her career, and she won the Lifetime Achievement Award in North American Hairdressing Awards, a supreme honor in the hairdressing industry.

身為數位教學先驅者，她也表示自Youtube發展後，快速地成了她最大競爭對手，Hair Designer TV採取收費會員制，課程架構明確、能驗收教學成果，而現在網路上越來越多免費影片出現，對數位教育造成的衝擊不容小覷。Vivienne表示：「Hair Designer TV是我創意的驅動，我需要創作大量的作品。看見髮型師蛻變也是激情之一，這裡充滿髮型師的學習見證！它就是我人生的轉捩點，我將畢生的知識都放進去了，多年來我投入視覺教學，現在世界因為新冠狀病毒停擺，突然也轉向這一塊，好像這世界進入了我的世界一般！說起來，是不是很有趣呢。」

As a pioneer in digital hairdressing education, she also admitted that after Youtube appeared, it became her biggest competitor. Hair Designer TV is based on membership and provide structured guide and really can see measurable results. With more and more free online videos, this impact on digital education industry should not be underestimated. “Hair Designer TV motivates my creativity. I love to design collections. The reward of seeing hairdresser lives being transformed also motivates me. I get so many great learning testimonies with hairdressers. Making this platform is a big turning point of my life. I put all my effort into it, and I've been doing virtual training for quite some time and now it seems like everyone is doing virtual training. Everyone's coming to where I'd been living for a while. So it's like, this is interesting.” said Vivienne.

美髮圈中影響Vivienne很深的人，Trevor Sorbie無疑是關鍵的一位：「Sorbie常說，創造力和品味不良是一線之隔，永遠不要犧牲掉美麗。我是一個有創造力的人，但力度過大容易失去品味水平，他的話點醒我不要為了一個瘋狂的想法而犧牲美麗，這建議對我至關重要。我從Sorbie身上學到很多，是他訓練我成為一個多才多藝的人。」Vivienne感性的說道。

Trevor Sorbie is undoubtedly one of the most influential person to Vivienne. “ Sorbie usually said there’s fine line between creativity and bad taste, and never compromise beauty. And I know I got so creative but sometimes it may lose the taste level. Sorbie’s words always remind me not to compromise beauty for a crazy idea and that was great advice. I have learned a lot from Sorbie, is he to teach me to be incredibly versatile.” Vivienne Said.

「不是在工作，就是在前往工作的路上。」我們這麼形容Vivienne，入行40多年，她早已學會駕馭忙碌的生活。而什麼又是Vivienne的生活調劑呢？「我養了一隻英俊的馬叫Celtic！有時間就會陪伴牠。我的心願是有天能擁有自己的馬場，常在想等賺夠錢就回英國開馬場，不過這夢想還沒達成！我是認真的愛馬人士。有時會去海邊，但我不是正統的沙灘女孩，太陽不喜歡我這種紅髮(笑)，可我非常享受慵懶的沙灘時光。其實只要放假，我還是最喜歡和先生待在一塊，真希望我們能有更多時間相處。」Vivienne甜甜的說著…

"Either at work or on the way to work." We describe Vivienne as such. In over 40 years hairdressing life, she got to know how to manage her busy life. How Vivienne strike balance between work and life？” I have a horse called Celtic who is magnificent. I love to spend time with my horse. I still dream to own a horse farm. I came to America thinking I would make enough money to buy a horse farm back in England, but it hasn't happened yet. I do love horses. Sometimes I went to the beach, but I am not a typical beach girl. Sun does not like my red hair (smile), but I still enjoy the lazy beach time. Actually, I love and I usually get along with my husband in holiday, and I hope we could have more time together. "Vivienne said sweetly ...

「一個好的髮型師，就是為顧客找到最適合他的造型，透過臉型、時尚元素、了解外型上的優缺，做出獨到設計，將這些要素做正確、了解髮型設計不是一遍又一遍的複製，並廣泛有彈性的運用技能，對我來說，那就是一位很棒的髮型師了。若能做到，除了美化一個人的外觀，還能藉由髮型幫助此人帶出由內而外散發的美麗，那就是最優秀的髮型師。最後，一位偉大的髮型師，是不會與人競爭的，他必是富有同情心、謙虛、把自我放一邊渴望學習的人、專業的人。」- Vivienne Mackinder

A good hairdresser is someone who puts the right look on the right person, which based on the person’s face shape, fashion elements, and advantages and disadvantages of one’s face. When getting all those elements right and you have a very broad repertoire of skills so you're not just doing one thing over and over again, that to me is a great hairdresser. Someone that knows how to create beauty and a look that not only fits the person's physical aspect, but also fits them from the inside out. It could be said the greatest hairdresser. Last but not least, a great hairdresser would not compete to others. They must be compassionate, humble, putting their ego aside, eager to learn, and professional.” - Vivienne Mackinder