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  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY Tim Hartley
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一代宗師 Tim Hartley
  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY Tim Hartley
  • POSTED

2011蟬聯BHA英國美髮大賽「年度最佳設計師提名」的Tim Hartley,成名之路充滿傳奇。他在七零年代時從理髮學徒做起,因為一開始就學剪刀推剪,練就了無畏剪髮的基本功。七零年代後期他已獲得沙宣設計師資格,當時他深受曼徹斯特的龐克前衛風格影響,晚上努力鑽研,白天成了他在學院創作的靈感來源。

 

Recently in Salon International, Tim proudly presented a Rare View at Salon Live. The show entitled ‘Rare View’ is the first installment of Tim’s new “Rarefied” series of seminars, shoots, education DVD’s and shows. Rarefied’ captures the high impact

cut and colour techniques that best illustrate the true value and purity found in precision hairdressing. For those looking forward to collecting these beautiful images, the shoots are being retouched and will soon be released to the industry by end of the year.

 

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醉心建築美學 成為現代髮藝先驅

八零年代初期,Tim開始轉向鑽研女性髮型,當時新浪漫主義席捲歐洲,吹起了一股性別實驗風潮,他為模特兒與當紅歌手打造的髮型受到當時的沙宣創意總監賞識,就被拔擢為地區總監。大約同時期,Tim開始發展出他的招牌-「簡約風格」,反映出他對二零年代現代主義、五零年代義大利建築設計,以及當代建築結構主義的愛好與素養。他在八零年代後期的創作風格奠定了九零年代以後各大精品時尚舞台的髮型方向,至此他成為現代髮型設計的先驅。千禧年後,他更取材自超現實主義的攝影美學、表演藝術,歌舞劇演出等,呈現每一年精湛的趨勢髮型。

Rare View is a celebration of natural texture, with shapes and techniques that empower movement and accentuate the beauty found in every head of hair. Tim presented two key moods for his show: Merry England and Designer. For Merry England, six female and one male model introduced Tim’s take on antiquity and modernity. Delicate Victorian underwear and authentic traditional artisan clothing in the shape of French smocks and English cotton shifts were blended with 21st century PVC. Tim used disconnected lengths, long layering, solid fringes, concave cutting at the nape and tight graduation to create detailed looks that were lightly texturised and strengthened through the outline.

 

八零年代後期,好萊塢女星費唐娜薇替珠寶公司做宣傳,Tim被選入她的形象改造團隊。他設計了一款簡單的齊長髮,只有後面稍稍上斜,並讓頭髮自然風乾,效果奇佳,此後好長一段時間費唐娜薇出席宣傳都使用該款髮型。同時期Tim已穩坐髮型界第一把交椅,獲獎無數,創作源源不絕,並在全球各地教學與表演,分享他的大匠藝術與對頭髮的愛好,用他的創意與熱情啟發並感動無數美髮人。

 

Vintage 80’s Thierry Mugler and modern pieces from provocative London designer J Maskrey brought a sculptural theme to Designer. Longer lengths with strong fringes and solid internal geometry were pin Merry England’ curled, piled and lightly back brushed for drama in width and height. Shorter styles hugged the head with weight through the crown and disconnected length in the fringe falling to the cheekbone. The colour, by Tim’s long-time collaborator Tracy Hayes, was high impact with a hint of surprise. Copper, ruby and red held cyan, magenta and orange just beneath the surface while blondes were cooled and flattened with dove greys or brightened with flashes of lilac.

 

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徵選英國表演助手 提攜後進不遺餘力

Tim在今年10月倫敦Salon International展會中的髮型秀,又帶給觀眾一場精采的2012趨勢髮型發表,在台上還把模特兒逗的樂不可支。數月前他並首開創舉,在海內外公開徵選後台助理,一起加入此次倫敦發表秀。而這個徵詢後台助理的公告獲得了非常廣大的回響,有來自日本、挪威、愛爾蘭、英國等地的設計師不遠千里慕名而來。

 

他表示,「這是國際表演,我也想示範給世界各地美髮人看。我一直很努力站在國際舞台上,在北美、南美跟亞洲各地都曾表演,即便是在我的沙宣歲月我也一樣努力,而且辦這樣的徵選可以讓我保持跟國際美髮界的互動。」

 

Tim indicated that“It’s a celebration of uncommon…nearly a personal journey of mine, capturing my imagination with many cultural references, musical and fashion elements…The first part of this series is inspired by the vintage fashion from 20s and 80s, presented in a modest way. I hope people come to the show to get an idea of my journey.”

 

Tim表示,「今年趨勢主題Rare View,顧名思義,是向所謂的不平凡精神致敬,崇尚與眾不同。我的心境比較特別又浪漫,這系列作品可視為我個人人生旅程的縮影,彰顯我對想像力、文化、音樂與時尚的體驗。希望來參加的觀眾也可以獲得這樣的靈感。」這個主題的第一系列乃用保守方式呈現1920與1980年代的復古時尚。此作品目前已進入影像後製階段,可望於2011年底對全球美髮界全面發佈,令人相當期待。

 

This year Tim teamed up with HJi to discover talents around the globe to be on his Salon Live backstage team, working with him side-by-side to present the tremendous show. Why this competition? Tim shared his idea: “It’s an international show. I want to showcase people from different parts of the world. I’ve always tried very hard to be a global hairdresser even in my Sassoon career. And I’ve presented in North America, South America and Asia. I also want to stay connected to the international hairdressing community.” The final lucky winners came from Japan, Ireland and UK, etc., proving the master’s unbeatable charisma.

 

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潛心個人成長 籌備學院與沙龍

2011年即將結束,Tim對未來也有一番展望與規劃。「結束了與Davines愉快的六年夥伴關係後,我想做一些自己想做的事情。有好多領域我都很有興趣,製作教學光碟、設計頂級的剪刀,我想更投入在大師課程教學,攝影教學,創意導演教學領域,最快在明年也許我會成立學院,也許也會成立我的沙龍,甚至我也想設計適合髮型師使用的髮品,這幾乎是所有髮型師的夢想呢!

 

After 6 years of amiable partnership with Davines, Tim is looking into a more diverse personal growth and has a lot on his to-do list. “Now I have Tim Hartley scissors and educational DVD…I have been strengthening my name as a brand. I would like to devote more to education, e.g. master course, creative directing and photograph…and perhaps a haircare product brand, an ultimate dream of every hairdresser!” In the near future, Tim is also planning on establishing salons and an academy. How soon would that be? “Maybe as soon as next year!” He said.

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