- TEXT BY Judy Shen
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY HOB Salons
- POSTED 2020/01/01
![圖](/assets/uploads/files/2020/137/80/1001.jpg)
- TEXT BY Judy Shen
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY HOB Salons
- POSTED 2020/01/01
高層次,去重量、減輕髮量的技巧,但不等同用打薄刀隨意去量,通常是用基準線作為引導,每片髮片都是有次序的裁剪。是最重要也最常被忽略的技巧,好的Layering可以為各式各樣的髮型增加細節,無論何種造型或髮質,都派得上用場。
The most important technique but often the most underestimated. Good layering helps you create the material for all your shapes. You can use it for every shape, texture and hair type.
低層次,堆積重量或厚度、由裡短外長來制造厚度和狐線。這技巧用來製造髮量,可以製造有或無張力的形狀線條,也可以形成任意髮型的形狀。
Graduation is used to build up weight, with geometric lines either with or without tension and will form the outline of any shape you create.
與Graduation相反,裡長外短,適合於髮質粗硬或濃厚,可用這技巧來去量。
這技巧是許多設計師的壓箱寶!它不是讓頭髮的一區變短,而是變長,這是 80 年代常用的技巧,用來製造比較強烈的形狀線條,現在則多用在水平剪的髮型上,來對抗厚重感。
This is the best kept secret in hairdressing! It’s the opposite of each section getting shorter; each section is getting longer. It was used a lot in the 80s to create hard, strong geometry. The modern version is to use it on one-length styles. Use it on one-length styles to combat graduation.
巳剪好初步的结構用個性化來處理及修飾,在專業裁剪裹叫做texturizing.
這也是不夠被重視的一項技術,這技巧是在長髮內剪短層次,可以建立頭髮內層的形狀,將內裡打薄、讓髮型更加立體、髮型更順,Texturising讓設計師各種變化髮量的可能性。Texturising isn’t taken seriously enough. It’s about cutting shorter lengths into your longer lengths to create an internal shape in your haircut that will work as a structure to your styles. Sometimes it will give a softening effect, or it can be used to thin out the hair. Texturising offers a whole world of possibilities and potentials by manipulating weight.
意指傳統之經典髮型,如鮑伯、堆積重量等,刀功有一定程序。Precision 剪髮技巧不單單只是製造線條,是 Akin Konizi 幾乎每次剪髮的時候都會用到的,這是讓設計師可以更精準造型的技巧,即是是凌亂不規則的造型,也可以用得上,如果你想製造結構或波浪,也是要使用 Precision。
Precision cutting is not just for geometry. It’s how I do all my cuts, it’s about doing your work precisely; if it’s a messy haircut, you still cut it with precision. If you want to create texture or choppiness, you still use precision.