Salon News Asia
  • TEXT BY Betty
  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY Infringe
  • POSTED 2017/01/01
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環球事紀
全新美髮雜誌 Infringe 上線
  • TEXT BY Betty
  • PHOTOGRAPHY BY Infringe
  • POSTED 2017/01/01

身為獲獎無數的髮型師和提碁(TIGI)創意總監,談到決定做新媒體的原因,Anthony Mascolo表示:「我和派特(pat)已經一起工作40年之久了。我們的關係緊密,且是彼此的靈感泉源。即使在休息時間,我們仍在思考下一步能做些什麼。我們最初的構想是創辦一個以頭髮為主題的線上雜誌。我們希望能將網站內容連結到社群媒體。」

 

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Pat & I have worked together for almost 40 years. Ours is a very close relationship and we feed off each other’s ideas. There’s no time when work stops, our creative process is continual. Even on our ‘downtime’ we think about what we can do next. Our original thought was to create a visual online magazine. This seemed the way forwards, linking online content to social media.

女兒啟發 專注於雜誌的不可取代性

事實上,這個想法是在某天偶然誕生。「當我跟女兒Alex談到她大學正在念的人類學科時,讓我們發現髮型文化的發展對消費者的重要性,就如同時尚和文化趨勢的衝擊。人類學研究看的是社會上多重面向的人類。頭髮跟這項研究很相似,並給我們的工作全新的觀點。」

 

It’s actually INFRINGE – An Anthropology of Hair. Our daughter Alex, did a degree in Anthropology and then a Masters in Forensic Anthropology. Totally off-the-wall as far as we were concerned! Where did that interest come from? However, talking to her about the subjects she was studying, made us see the culture and development of hairstyling and its importance to the wearer as well as the impact of fashion and cultural trends. The study of Anthropology looks at the various aspects of humans in societies. Hair is totally relevant to this study and gave us a new perspective to our own work.

 

雖然傳統紙媒遇到很大的挑戰,但是Anthony想看看這些美麗且有趣的攝影作品印刷後的樣子。這些印刷品帶給他的靈感遠大於緊盯著電腦螢幕所能看到的樣子。Anthony希望人們可以保留一本雜誌給自己做紀念。

 

Personally I like to see beautiful and interesting photography in print. It inspires me far more than looking at a computer screen I don’t want INFRINGE to be of the moment. I want people to be able to keep their copy.

 

說到靈感的產生,Anthony表示,為了記錄髮型文化,他們會旅行到很遙遠的地方,試圖見見這些非比尋常的髮型師。Infringe雜誌遇到的挑戰是,如何讓人們願意向他們展現自己的工作世界。「不過還好,當我想不到新點子時,我會閱讀Dazed雜誌,它完美地捕捉到最新流行文化。」

 

This is especially so because we are interested in documenting hair culture that is ‘on the fringes’, which often means travelling to far-flung places and meeting wonderfully unusual people! The influence it can bring is about taking people outside of their usual viewpoint to think more widely about their work.

I’ve followed Dazed since it first came out. It perfectly captures emerging fashion and culture.

擁有來自世界各地的人脈

由於曾經身為髮型師和攝影師的身份,Anthony在世界各地擁有很多專業聯絡人,像是藝術家、攝影師、平面設計師、導演等,都讓他在創作INFRINGE的過程中,得到很大的幫助。「針對我們的『人物』專欄,我們的核心團隊做了很多研究。我們採訪許多創意髮型師,我們也因此採訪了為他們照相的攝影師。我們很幸運,團隊雖然小但很用心,致力於讓每個人樂於踏出舒適圈,從事全新的事物。」

 

My experiences as a hairdresser and as a photographer have obviously been important, but I also have a vast number of contacts across the globe – artists, photographers, graphic designers and film-makers, who have inspired me to create this project.

 

For our ‘People’ section, our core team did a lot of research. We interviewed hair creatives and accompanied this with images taken throughout their careers. This meant lots of liaison with agents and photographers to be able to feature their amazing imagery. We are lucky that our team is small and dedicated and everyone is happy to ‘muck in’ and get involved with things outside of their comfort zones.

 

Anthony談到印象最深刻的就是,有次聽到一個高齡106歲卻仍在紐約擔任理髮師工作的故事,受訪者對美髮的熱愛相當激勵人心。Infringe雜誌希望能吸引到髮型師、藝術家,以及工作中跟髮型美感時尚有關聯的人群,從內心帶來改變。2018年Infringe雜誌預計發行一期以上,為美髮圈帶來幫助。

 

Probably one of the most amazing stories is the New York barber who is still working at 106!

Whilst INFRINGE is about hair, we wanted to not only appeal to hairdressers, but also artists, photographers and people within the world of beauty and fashion for whom hair is an important aspect of their work.

We won’t publish another issue in 2017 but there will be at least 1 next year!

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