一定要搞懂的五個剪髮技巧
INTRODUCTION
剪髮可以說是所有髮型師每天的例行公事，來自HOB Salons、曾四度獲選英國年度最佳髮型師的Akin Konizi分享了每位髮型師都需要知道的五個剪髮技巧，他表示：「使用正確的剪髮工具可以增加髮型的變化和層次，一旦你知道何謂對的剪髮工具，你可以創造出更多元的造型，工具對於增進剪髮技巧的重要性是不容小覷的。」
INTRODUCTION
剪髮可以說是所有髮型師每天的例行公事，來自HOB Salons、曾四度獲選英國年度最佳髮型師的Akin Konizi分享了每位髮型師都需要知道的五個剪髮技巧，他表示：「使用正確的剪髮工具可以增加髮型的變化和層次，一旦你知道何謂對的剪髮工具，你可以創造出更多元的造型，工具對於增進剪髮技巧的重要性是不容小覷的。」
Hairstyle by
Salon
Photographer
Make Up
Stylist
Remarks
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Layering去掉重量</div>
<p>高層次，去重量、減輕髮量的技巧，但不等同用打薄刀隨意去量，通常是用基準線作為引導，每片髮片都是有次序的裁剪。是最重要也最常被忽略的技巧，好的Layering可以為各式各樣的髮型增加細節，無論何種造型或髮質，都派得上用場。<br />The most important technique but often the most underestimated. Good layering helps you create the material for all your shapes. You can use it for every shape, texture and hair type.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Graduation堆積重量</div>
<p>低層次，堆積重量或厚度、由裡短外長來制造厚度和狐線。這技巧用來製造髮量，可以製造有或無張力的形狀線條，也可以形成任意髮型的形狀。<br />Graduation is used to build up weight, with geometric lines either with or without tension and will form the outline of any shape you create.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Reverse Graduation逆轉漸增層次</div>
<p>與Graduation相反，裡長外短，適合於髮質粗硬或濃厚，可用這技巧來去量。<br />這技巧是許多設計師的壓箱寶！它不是讓頭髮的一區變短，而是變長，這是 80 年代常用的技巧，用來製造比較強烈的形狀線條，現在則多用在水平剪的髮型上，來對抗厚重感。<br />This is the best kept secret in hairdressing! It’s the opposite of each section getting shorter; each section is getting longer. It was used a lot in the 80s to create hard, strong geometry. The modern version is to use it on one-length styles. Use it on one-length styles to combat graduation.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Texturising質感、纹理化</div>
<p>巳剪好初步的结構用個性化來處理及修飾，在專業裁剪裹叫做texturizing.<br />這也是不夠被重視的一項技術，這技巧是在長髮內剪短層次，可以建立頭髮內層的形狀，將內裡打薄、讓髮型更加立體、髮型更順，Texturising讓設計師各種變化髮量的可能性。Texturising isn’t taken seriously enough. It’s about cutting shorter lengths into your longer lengths to create an internal shape in your haircut that will work as a structure to your styles. Sometimes it will give a softening effect, or it can be used to thin out the hair. Texturising offers a whole world of possibilities and potentials by manipulating weight.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Precision Cutting精準及精確剪裁技巧</div>
<p>意指傳統之經典髮型，如鮑伯、堆積重量等，刀功有一定程序。Precision 剪髮技巧不單單只是製造線條，是 Akin Konizi 幾乎每次剪髮的時候都會用到的，這是讓設計師可以更精準造型的技巧，即是是凌亂不規則的造型，也可以用得上，如果你想製造結構或波浪，也是要使用 Precision。<br />Precision cutting is not just for geometry. It’s how I do all my cuts, it’s about doing your work precisely; if it’s a messy haircut, you still cut it with precision. If you want to create texture or choppiness, you still use precision.</p>
<p>高層次，去重量、減輕髮量的技巧，但不等同用打薄刀隨意去量，通常是用基準線作為引導，每片髮片都是有次序的裁剪。是最重要也最常被忽略的技巧，好的Layering可以為各式各樣的髮型增加細節，無論何種造型或髮質，都派得上用場。<br />The most important technique but often the most underestimated. Good layering helps you create the material for all your shapes. You can use it for every shape, texture and hair type.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Graduation堆積重量</div>
<p>低層次，堆積重量或厚度、由裡短外長來制造厚度和狐線。這技巧用來製造髮量，可以製造有或無張力的形狀線條，也可以形成任意髮型的形狀。<br />Graduation is used to build up weight, with geometric lines either with or without tension and will form the outline of any shape you create.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Reverse Graduation逆轉漸增層次</div>
<p>與Graduation相反，裡長外短，適合於髮質粗硬或濃厚，可用這技巧來去量。<br />這技巧是許多設計師的壓箱寶！它不是讓頭髮的一區變短，而是變長，這是 80 年代常用的技巧，用來製造比較強烈的形狀線條，現在則多用在水平剪的髮型上，來對抗厚重感。<br />This is the best kept secret in hairdressing! It’s the opposite of each section getting shorter; each section is getting longer. It was used a lot in the 80s to create hard, strong geometry. The modern version is to use it on one-length styles. Use it on one-length styles to combat graduation.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Texturising質感、纹理化</div>
<p>巳剪好初步的结構用個性化來處理及修飾，在專業裁剪裹叫做texturizing.<br />這也是不夠被重視的一項技術，這技巧是在長髮內剪短層次，可以建立頭髮內層的形狀，將內裡打薄、讓髮型更加立體、髮型更順，Texturising讓設計師各種變化髮量的可能性。Texturising isn’t taken seriously enough. It’s about cutting shorter lengths into your longer lengths to create an internal shape in your haircut that will work as a structure to your styles. Sometimes it will give a softening effect, or it can be used to thin out the hair. Texturising offers a whole world of possibilities and potentials by manipulating weight.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">Precision Cutting精準及精確剪裁技巧</div>
<p>意指傳統之經典髮型，如鮑伯、堆積重量等，刀功有一定程序。Precision 剪髮技巧不單單只是製造線條，是 Akin Konizi 幾乎每次剪髮的時候都會用到的，這是讓設計師可以更精準造型的技巧，即是是凌亂不規則的造型，也可以用得上，如果你想製造結構或波浪，也是要使用 Precision。<br />Precision cutting is not just for geometry. It’s how I do all my cuts, it’s about doing your work precisely; if it’s a messy haircut, you still cut it with precision. If you want to create texture or choppiness, you still use precision.</p>
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