三種風格迥異的編髮造型解析 by KEVIN.MURPHY團隊
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
享譽全球的外景造型師Kevin Murphy回到家鄉澳洲，先後為澳洲知名品牌Myer的2015春夏時裝發表會和澳洲春夏時裝週打造色彩亮麗繽紛的舞台造型。
Hairstyle by
Salon
Photographer
Make Up
Stylist
Remarks
<p>在造型上，Kevin Murphy團隊以1940年代的復古捲髮，營造美人魚般的浪漫情懷。Kevin Murphy說：「春夏兩季是眾多色彩綻放的季節，這成了一個絕佳的機會，讓髮型師能肆無忌憚地將所有色彩揮灑在模特兒的頭髮上。」</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/seafolly001.jpeg?1612415906772" alt="seafolly001" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Kevin Murphy aimed to make the models look like mermaids by using pastels and 40s waves. “I’m very excited to be working with Myer on this prestigious event for the sixth season,” says Murphy. “Spring Summer collections are always playful and colourful, so it really is a time when we can experiment with hair on the runway, which I’m looking forward to.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>糖果粉、嬰兒藍、檸檬綠和薄荷綠，粉嫩色系是最適合春夏視覺饗宴。Kevin Murphy和共同負責人James Nicholson及Nathan Gorman在模特兒的頭髮上大量使用霧面、如同粉筆彩繪般的色彩，加上亮粉，彷彿剛出水的美人魚般閃閃動人。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/10497833_816154028419194_192669996963396818_o.jpeg?1612416008732" alt="10497833_816154028419194_192669996963396818_o" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Murphy was responsible for the creation and execution of the hairstyles of the parade’s female and male models, with James Nicholson and Nathan Gorman at the helm as co-hair directors. The hair look will see pops of pastels incorporated, including candy pink, baby blue, lemon and mint green, with the aim of amplifying the depth of colour in the SS15 Collection as well as complementing the soft makeup look.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Myer的品牌大使Jennifer Hawkins，總是以一頭亮麗的淡金色捲髮現身，在這場走秀中，她也被Kevin Murphy說服，挑染了一綹糖果粉紅，讓整體造型更加亮眼。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Jennifer Hawkins, ambassador of Myer, is known for her blonde hair. However, she was persuaded be Kevin Murphy, showing up on the stage with a candy pink partial hair dyeing which indeed made her look much more fabulous.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">造型獨家技巧</div>
<p>◆ 在乾髮上噴灑海洋天堂,創造有如吹過海風般的隨興凌亂造型。</p>
<p>◆ 前方頭髮側分，使用中型電棒捲，增加頭頂和前額的頭髮豐厚度。</p>
<p>◆ 輕輕地將兩側的頭髮編到後頸，形成寬鬆的髮辮。</p>
<p>◆ 用髮圈固定髮辮後，平行地往頸部方向捲一圈，與Katharine Hepburn最著名的髮型輪廓相似。</p>
<p>◆ 髮型輪廓出來後，就可以先噴上乾洗髮創造霧面效果，並且區域性的塗上白色彩色蟲，直到髮色變成白金色，即可噴上龍捲風，維護造型同時保護髮色。</p>
<p>◆ 在剩下的區域選擇任一顏色的彩色蟲，上好顏色後噴灑金光閃閃，讓頭髮在燈光下散發閃耀光彩。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>◆ Spritz Kevin Murphy Hair.Resort.Spray on dry lengths.</p>
<p>◆ Part the hair off centre, then using a medium tong, tong the hair at the front and on top to create volume.</p>
<p>◆ Loosely braid both sides back toward the nape of the neck.</p>
<p>◆ Stitch with hair elastic, rolling up away from the hairline, toward the nape. The aim is to create a Katharine Hepburn silhouette.</p>
<p>◆ Once the style has been created, apply Fresh.Hair and White.Bug liberally until "Marie-Antoinette" white hair is achieved. Then set your style with Session.Spray.</p>
<p>◆ Pick your favourite Colour.Bug shade and rub into the hair and finish with Shimmer.Shine.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">權力遊戲般的復古歌德風</div>
<p>9月2號登場的第一場Designer Runway，由多位服裝設計師共同展現作品。髮型部分，Kevin Murphy團隊為每一位模特兒做出細緻精巧的魚骨辮造型，配上金色彩色蟲，讓剛毅的變髮造型增添不少女人味。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/jason_grech-6.jpeg?1612416148008" alt="jason_grech-6" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Kevin Murphy and his team of Session.Stylists channelled the Victorian Gothic revival with a wispy ethereal braid, creating a floaty and feminine look for the Designer Runway 1 show on Tuesday, 2 September, 2014.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Kevin Murphy表示，靈感來自畫家卡拉瓦喬的作品Judith和雪梨富有的維多利亞時期哥德風建築，別具巧思的是我們在髮尾的地方加上一把金色鑰匙，讓整體的華麗感兼提升不少。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“I was inspired by Caraviggio's interpretation of Judith and the Victorian Gothic revival and Melbourne has such a variety of those buildings. We used a key in the hair to add a touch of the ornate and unexpected”, said Hair Director, Kevin Murphy.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">造型獨家技巧</div>
<p>◆ 使用永保青春打底，使髮絲柔順好整理。</p>
<p>◆ 噴上海洋天堂，並將頭髮分成四等份。</p>
<p>◆ 使用大尺寸的電棒捲，在頭髮稍稍製造彎曲的捲度。</p>
<p>◆ 中分後，兩側頭髮個別編出鬆散的髮辮。</p>
<p>◆ 讓兩側髮辮在頸部上方會合，並用使用魚骨辮的方法將之合而為一。</p>
<p>◆ 最後噴上龍捲風和彈簧膠，增強造型的支撐力，並塗上金色彩色蟲作為完結。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>◆ Prime the hair with STAYING.ALIVE to even out porosity.</p>
<p>◆ Prep the hair with HAIR.RESORT Spray, and divide hair into four even sections.</p>
<p>◆ Using a large curling iron, create a slight bend in the hair.</p>
<p>◆ Create a middle part and loosely braid each side of the hair.</p>
<p>◆ Sew the loose braids into a tight style, finishing with a fishtail braid that meets in the middle nape of the neck .</p>
<p>◆ Finish the hair with SESSION.SPRAY, SUPER.GOO, and SHIMMER.BUG.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">即將席捲全球的吉普賽辮髮</div>
<p>在第三場Designer Runway中，Kevin Murphy團隊再度創造新的辮髮造型，這次的靈感來是1940年代歐洲的吉普賽人。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/dsc_8091.jpeg?1612416618161" alt="dsc_8091" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The modest braid was reinvented by Kevin Murphy and his Session.Stylists at Thursday evening’s ‘Runway 3’ of Melbourne Spring Fashion Week’s designer series, inspired by 1940s South European Gypsies.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>談到這次的靈感，Kevin Murphy說：「我看著1940年代南歐附近吉普賽民族的辮髮，思考著我該怎麼創新，因為我不希望做出太過於復古的造型，因此我保留了吉普賽女人的髮型輪廓，和他們將辮子固定在頸部的創意。」Kevin Murphy更認為這樣的造型將會成為春夏時裝週的趨勢髮型，帶起編髮的潮流。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“I looked at the hair of the Southern European Gypsies in the 1940s, and while I didn’t want the look to be too nostalgic, I wanted to emulate the humble silhouette of a Gypsy woman with a simple shape and the use of braids at the nape area”, said Hair Director, Kevin Murphy. This braid technique is set to be one of the hottest hair trends of spring/summer, emerging at NYFW earlier this year and now at MSFW.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">造型獨家技巧</div>
<p>◆ 先用金光閃閃打底，鎖住頭髮的水分，讓頭髮更加有光澤。</p>
<p>◆ 使用海洋天堂和泡沫滅火器，快速勾勒出髮型輪廓，創造自然柔順的豐盈感。</p>
<p>◆ 將頭髮分成兩束馬尾，固定於頸部後方。</p>
<p>◆ 使用大尺寸的電棒捲，在頭頂製造些微的捲度和凌亂的質感。</p>
<p>◆ 用髮夾固定頭髮，待頭髮冷卻。</p>
<p>◆ 將下方兩束馬尾編成辮子，並捲成盛盤狀，將盤狀的辮髮固定在頸部後方。</p>
<p>◆ 最後，噴上龍捲風固定造形，在臉頰兩側拉出一些髮絲修飾造型。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>◆ Prime wet hair with SHIMMER.SHINE for a hydrated surface.</p>
<p>◆ Prep the hair with HAIR.RESORT Spray and BODY.BUILDER.</p>
<p>◆ Pull the lower section of hair away and separate into two low ponytails at the nape of the neck.</p>
<p>◆ Use a large curling tong on the top sections of hair to create a combination of wavy, straight and messy texture.</p>
<p>◆ Secure the hair with clips as it cools down to set.</p>
<p>◆ Braid the ponytails, then roll the braid into a coil securing to the nape and sewing tight with thread.</p>
<p>◆ Finish the hair with SESSION.SPRAY, pulling a few wisps of hair out at the front for a textured finish.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/seafolly001.jpeg?1612415906772" alt="seafolly001" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Kevin Murphy aimed to make the models look like mermaids by using pastels and 40s waves. “I’m very excited to be working with Myer on this prestigious event for the sixth season,” says Murphy. “Spring Summer collections are always playful and colourful, so it really is a time when we can experiment with hair on the runway, which I’m looking forward to.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>糖果粉、嬰兒藍、檸檬綠和薄荷綠，粉嫩色系是最適合春夏視覺饗宴。Kevin Murphy和共同負責人James Nicholson及Nathan Gorman在模特兒的頭髮上大量使用霧面、如同粉筆彩繪般的色彩，加上亮粉，彷彿剛出水的美人魚般閃閃動人。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/10497833_816154028419194_192669996963396818_o.jpeg?1612416008732" alt="10497833_816154028419194_192669996963396818_o" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Murphy was responsible for the creation and execution of the hairstyles of the parade’s female and male models, with James Nicholson and Nathan Gorman at the helm as co-hair directors. The hair look will see pops of pastels incorporated, including candy pink, baby blue, lemon and mint green, with the aim of amplifying the depth of colour in the SS15 Collection as well as complementing the soft makeup look.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Myer的品牌大使Jennifer Hawkins，總是以一頭亮麗的淡金色捲髮現身，在這場走秀中，她也被Kevin Murphy說服，挑染了一綹糖果粉紅，讓整體造型更加亮眼。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Jennifer Hawkins, ambassador of Myer, is known for her blonde hair. However, she was persuaded be Kevin Murphy, showing up on the stage with a candy pink partial hair dyeing which indeed made her look much more fabulous.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">造型獨家技巧</div>
<p>◆ 在乾髮上噴灑海洋天堂,創造有如吹過海風般的隨興凌亂造型。</p>
<p>◆ 前方頭髮側分，使用中型電棒捲，增加頭頂和前額的頭髮豐厚度。</p>
<p>◆ 輕輕地將兩側的頭髮編到後頸，形成寬鬆的髮辮。</p>
<p>◆ 用髮圈固定髮辮後，平行地往頸部方向捲一圈，與Katharine Hepburn最著名的髮型輪廓相似。</p>
<p>◆ 髮型輪廓出來後，就可以先噴上乾洗髮創造霧面效果，並且區域性的塗上白色彩色蟲，直到髮色變成白金色，即可噴上龍捲風，維護造型同時保護髮色。</p>
<p>◆ 在剩下的區域選擇任一顏色的彩色蟲，上好顏色後噴灑金光閃閃，讓頭髮在燈光下散發閃耀光彩。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>◆ Spritz Kevin Murphy Hair.Resort.Spray on dry lengths.</p>
<p>◆ Part the hair off centre, then using a medium tong, tong the hair at the front and on top to create volume.</p>
<p>◆ Loosely braid both sides back toward the nape of the neck.</p>
<p>◆ Stitch with hair elastic, rolling up away from the hairline, toward the nape. The aim is to create a Katharine Hepburn silhouette.</p>
<p>◆ Once the style has been created, apply Fresh.Hair and White.Bug liberally until "Marie-Antoinette" white hair is achieved. Then set your style with Session.Spray.</p>
<p>◆ Pick your favourite Colour.Bug shade and rub into the hair and finish with Shimmer.Shine.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">權力遊戲般的復古歌德風</div>
<p>9月2號登場的第一場Designer Runway，由多位服裝設計師共同展現作品。髮型部分，Kevin Murphy團隊為每一位模特兒做出細緻精巧的魚骨辮造型，配上金色彩色蟲，讓剛毅的變髮造型增添不少女人味。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/jason_grech-6.jpeg?1612416148008" alt="jason_grech-6" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Kevin Murphy and his team of Session.Stylists channelled the Victorian Gothic revival with a wispy ethereal braid, creating a floaty and feminine look for the Designer Runway 1 show on Tuesday, 2 September, 2014.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Kevin Murphy表示，靈感來自畫家卡拉瓦喬的作品Judith和雪梨富有的維多利亞時期哥德風建築，別具巧思的是我們在髮尾的地方加上一把金色鑰匙，讓整體的華麗感兼提升不少。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“I was inspired by Caraviggio's interpretation of Judith and the Victorian Gothic revival and Melbourne has such a variety of those buildings. We used a key in the hair to add a touch of the ornate and unexpected”, said Hair Director, Kevin Murphy.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">造型獨家技巧</div>
<p>◆ 使用永保青春打底，使髮絲柔順好整理。</p>
<p>◆ 噴上海洋天堂，並將頭髮分成四等份。</p>
<p>◆ 使用大尺寸的電棒捲，在頭髮稍稍製造彎曲的捲度。</p>
<p>◆ 中分後，兩側頭髮個別編出鬆散的髮辮。</p>
<p>◆ 讓兩側髮辮在頸部上方會合，並用使用魚骨辮的方法將之合而為一。</p>
<p>◆ 最後噴上龍捲風和彈簧膠，增強造型的支撐力，並塗上金色彩色蟲作為完結。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>◆ Prime the hair with STAYING.ALIVE to even out porosity.</p>
<p>◆ Prep the hair with HAIR.RESORT Spray, and divide hair into four even sections.</p>
<p>◆ Using a large curling iron, create a slight bend in the hair.</p>
<p>◆ Create a middle part and loosely braid each side of the hair.</p>
<p>◆ Sew the loose braids into a tight style, finishing with a fishtail braid that meets in the middle nape of the neck .</p>
<p>◆ Finish the hair with SESSION.SPRAY, SUPER.GOO, and SHIMMER.BUG.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">即將席捲全球的吉普賽辮髮</div>
<p>在第三場Designer Runway中，Kevin Murphy團隊再度創造新的辮髮造型，這次的靈感來是1940年代歐洲的吉普賽人。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2014/102/82/dsc_8091.jpeg?1612416618161" alt="dsc_8091" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The modest braid was reinvented by Kevin Murphy and his Session.Stylists at Thursday evening’s ‘Runway 3’ of Melbourne Spring Fashion Week’s designer series, inspired by 1940s South European Gypsies.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>談到這次的靈感，Kevin Murphy說：「我看著1940年代南歐附近吉普賽民族的辮髮，思考著我該怎麼創新，因為我不希望做出太過於復古的造型，因此我保留了吉普賽女人的髮型輪廓，和他們將辮子固定在頸部的創意。」Kevin Murphy更認為這樣的造型將會成為春夏時裝週的趨勢髮型，帶起編髮的潮流。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“I looked at the hair of the Southern European Gypsies in the 1940s, and while I didn’t want the look to be too nostalgic, I wanted to emulate the humble silhouette of a Gypsy woman with a simple shape and the use of braids at the nape area”, said Hair Director, Kevin Murphy. This braid technique is set to be one of the hottest hair trends of spring/summer, emerging at NYFW earlier this year and now at MSFW.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">造型獨家技巧</div>
<p>◆ 先用金光閃閃打底，鎖住頭髮的水分，讓頭髮更加有光澤。</p>
<p>◆ 使用海洋天堂和泡沫滅火器，快速勾勒出髮型輪廓，創造自然柔順的豐盈感。</p>
<p>◆ 將頭髮分成兩束馬尾，固定於頸部後方。</p>
<p>◆ 使用大尺寸的電棒捲，在頭頂製造些微的捲度和凌亂的質感。</p>
<p>◆ 用髮夾固定頭髮，待頭髮冷卻。</p>
<p>◆ 將下方兩束馬尾編成辮子，並捲成盛盤狀，將盤狀的辮髮固定在頸部後方。</p>
<p>◆ 最後，噴上龍捲風固定造形，在臉頰兩側拉出一些髮絲修飾造型。</p>
<p> </p>
<p>◆ Prime wet hair with SHIMMER.SHINE for a hydrated surface.</p>
<p>◆ Prep the hair with HAIR.RESORT Spray and BODY.BUILDER.</p>
<p>◆ Pull the lower section of hair away and separate into two low ponytails at the nape of the neck.</p>
<p>◆ Use a large curling tong on the top sections of hair to create a combination of wavy, straight and messy texture.</p>
<p>◆ Secure the hair with clips as it cools down to set.</p>
<p>◆ Braid the ponytails, then roll the braid into a coil securing to the nape and sewing tight with thread.</p>
<p>◆ Finish the hair with SESSION.SPRAY, pulling a few wisps of hair out at the front for a textured finish.</p>
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