跟著Toni&Guy掌握伸展台男士髮型兩大關鍵
INTRODUCTION
TONI&GUY的專業外景造型團隊與倫敦時裝週已有數十年合作歷史，今年更第七度位男士時裝打造專業髮型。髮型重點不外乎以旁分的紳士風格為基礎，添加造型品以打造光亮質感，或以捲髮改變頭髮質地，創造蓬鬆厚度，讓髮型不再單調。
#TONI&GUY
INTRODUCTION
TONI&GUY的專業外景造型團隊與倫敦時裝週已有數十年合作歷史，今年更第七度位男士時裝打造專業髮型。髮型重點不外乎以旁分的紳士風格為基礎，添加造型品以打造光亮質感，或以捲髮改變頭髮質地，創造蓬鬆厚度，讓髮型不再單調。
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<p>The TONI&GUY Session Team were backstage for the seventh London Collections: Men. From Heritage brands to high fashion, the TONI&GUY Men's style specialists worked their magic at key shows including: Brit-cool designer Henry Holland's inaugural House of Holland menswear collection.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">SIDEWAYS SLICK</div>
<p>延燒好幾季的旁分油頭在今年的倫敦時裝週依然屢見不鮮，今年剛奪下AIPP Grand Trophy的藝術總監Chie Sato，在Matthew Miller的時裝秀上將男模的頭髮往斜後梳整，打造經典的復古紳士髮型。</p>
<p>Slicked back hair was worn at several shows, including Matthew Miller where Artistic Director Chie Sato and the team created a perfectly polished side-part by sweeping hair off the face, for a groomed entlemanly take on a classic shape.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-matthewmiller-0276-db-bs-2149.jpg?1612256297253" alt="ss16-matthewmiller-0276-db-bs-2149" /> <img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-hardyamies-2301-km-bs-4383.jpg?1612256297253" alt="ss16-hardyamies-2301-km-bs-4383" /> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>同樣的旁分油頭也出現在Hardy Amies的時裝秀中，藝術總監Kevin Luchmun以經典造型為基礎，添加新意，改從眉峰處旁分，以造型品增加光澤感，並盡量壓平頂部，而非創造分量感，讓經典髮型也能變化出新潮樣貌。</p>
<p>The look was also worn at Hardy Amies but with a futuristic feel by working the side parting from the middle of the eyebrow as crafted by Artistic Director Kevin Luchmun and co. Super slick and high shine, with slight texture at the crown, this lookwas worn flat rather than with height.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-hardyamies-0132-kk-bs-656.jpg?1612256297253" alt="ss16-hardyamies-0132-kk-bs-656" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">HOLIDAY HAIR</div>
<p>從西裝筆挺的紳士風格，一轉眼，造型來到南法蔚藍海岸，強調頭髮原生的律動感，不以過多產品定型，展現慵懶鬆散的度假風格。以Jermyn Street時裝秀上的造型為例，兩側頭髮向後梳整，在頂部以捲髮增加份量感，結合些微的旁分分區，讓髮型仍帶著度假般不經心的放鬆慵懶。</p>
<p>From Saville Row to the French Rivera, hair took a holiday, with a naturalistic, almost anti-product, lived-in vibe. At the Jermyn Street, St James’s event, Artistic Director Daniele De Angelis created high hair, clean at the sides but not too fussy – just the right side of dishevelled for a relaxing city gent.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0422-dp-bs-5958.jpg?1612256467318" alt="ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0422-dp-bs-5958" /> <img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0090-dp-bs-2990.jpg?1612256467318" alt="ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0090-dp-bs-2990" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>而藝術總監Daniele De Angelis在Chester Barrie時裝秀的男模髮型多添加了度假風元素，不論是在捲度的呈現亦或造型品的選擇上，都凸顯現代男士摩登優雅，創造有如貴族紳士般的海邊度假造型。</p>
<p>Whilst at Chester Barrie, hair was infused by the “seaside” elements to create the sense of a modern gentleman holidaying on the Rivera.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">STREET TRIBE</div>
<p>80年代從足球場延伸到街頭的football terraces風格；或是90年代DJ與與電音蓬勃發展，愛跑趴的Raver們把色彩鮮豔誇張的派對文化帶上伸展台。HOUSE OF HOLLAND 2016春夏的男裝把足球穿著結合了鮮豔的色彩，高調的個人風格在髮型設計上也同樣顯而易見。</p>
<p>在這場以「個人特色」為靈感的時裝秀上，因人而異的為模特兒訂做髮型成了藝術總監Cos Sakkas的首要工作，他根據服裝與男模的性格，量身打造能凸顯其個性的街頭時尚髮型，不只成功在時裝秀成了完美綠葉，更是全球男性都能輕易仿效的簡單造型。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-houseofholland-0918-db-bs-7896.jpg?1612256356176" alt="ss16-houseofholland-0918-db-bs-7896" /><img style="font-size: 14px;" src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-houseofholland-0693-db-bs-1136.jpg?1612256356176" alt="ss16-houseofholland-0693-db-bs-1136" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>From football terraces, to buffalo boys and 90s ravers – House of Holland’s first menswear collection was high on individuality as was the height of the hair. Each model inspired their own look, with Artistic Director Cos Sakkas and team creating a bespoke style to highlight the individual character of its muse. “Personality” was the message stated loud and clear – individuality makes a man.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">THE QUIFF</div>
<p>2016年的捲髮回歸不僅限於女性，蓬鬆、不修邊幅的捲髮質感也回到了男士伸展台，在E. TAUTZ的時裝秀上，藝術總監Kevin Luchmun以1950年代搖滾與鄉村並重的Rockabilly作為背景，擷取了二戰後的經典造型，帶點反叛和挑釁的男孩氣息。Kevin將男模的頭髮以造型品輔助，以手指梳攏頭髮使用小鐵夾固定，創造自然紋理，將頭髮集中於後頸上方，做出如同鴨子屁屁的趣味造型。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img style="font-size: 14px;" src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-etautz-0790-db-bs-1295.jpg?1612256562103" alt="ss16-etautz-0790-db-bs-1295" /><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-etautz-0709-db-bs-8296.jpg?1612256562103" alt="ss16-etautz-0709-db-bs-8296" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The quiff is most certainly back in style, worn high and voluminous with a distinct nod to 1950s Rockabilly. Artistic Director Kevin Luchmun and team created a rebellious take on this 50s classic, the inspiration - a post war kid taking control of his life. Hair was swept back, and slicked at the sides but texture was key, with a “duck ass” creating interest at the back.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-etautz-0197-db-bs-2298.jpg?1612256562103" alt="ss16-etautz-0197-db-bs-2298" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">SIDEWAYS SLICK</div>
<p>延燒好幾季的旁分油頭在今年的倫敦時裝週依然屢見不鮮，今年剛奪下AIPP Grand Trophy的藝術總監Chie Sato，在Matthew Miller的時裝秀上將男模的頭髮往斜後梳整，打造經典的復古紳士髮型。</p>
<p>Slicked back hair was worn at several shows, including Matthew Miller where Artistic Director Chie Sato and the team created a perfectly polished side-part by sweeping hair off the face, for a groomed entlemanly take on a classic shape.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-matthewmiller-0276-db-bs-2149.jpg?1612256297253" alt="ss16-matthewmiller-0276-db-bs-2149" /> <img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-hardyamies-2301-km-bs-4383.jpg?1612256297253" alt="ss16-hardyamies-2301-km-bs-4383" /> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>同樣的旁分油頭也出現在Hardy Amies的時裝秀中，藝術總監Kevin Luchmun以經典造型為基礎，添加新意，改從眉峰處旁分，以造型品增加光澤感，並盡量壓平頂部，而非創造分量感，讓經典髮型也能變化出新潮樣貌。</p>
<p>The look was also worn at Hardy Amies but with a futuristic feel by working the side parting from the middle of the eyebrow as crafted by Artistic Director Kevin Luchmun and co. Super slick and high shine, with slight texture at the crown, this lookwas worn flat rather than with height.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-hardyamies-0132-kk-bs-656.jpg?1612256297253" alt="ss16-hardyamies-0132-kk-bs-656" /></p>
<p> </p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">HOLIDAY HAIR</div>
<p>從西裝筆挺的紳士風格，一轉眼，造型來到南法蔚藍海岸，強調頭髮原生的律動感，不以過多產品定型，展現慵懶鬆散的度假風格。以Jermyn Street時裝秀上的造型為例，兩側頭髮向後梳整，在頂部以捲髮增加份量感，結合些微的旁分分區，讓髮型仍帶著度假般不經心的放鬆慵懶。</p>
<p>From Saville Row to the French Rivera, hair took a holiday, with a naturalistic, almost anti-product, lived-in vibe. At the Jermyn Street, St James’s event, Artistic Director Daniele De Angelis created high hair, clean at the sides but not too fussy – just the right side of dishevelled for a relaxing city gent.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0422-dp-bs-5958.jpg?1612256467318" alt="ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0422-dp-bs-5958" /> <img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0090-dp-bs-2990.jpg?1612256467318" alt="ss16-stjamesjermynstreet-0090-dp-bs-2990" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>而藝術總監Daniele De Angelis在Chester Barrie時裝秀的男模髮型多添加了度假風元素，不論是在捲度的呈現亦或造型品的選擇上，都凸顯現代男士摩登優雅，創造有如貴族紳士般的海邊度假造型。</p>
<p>Whilst at Chester Barrie, hair was infused by the “seaside” elements to create the sense of a modern gentleman holidaying on the Rivera.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">STREET TRIBE</div>
<p>80年代從足球場延伸到街頭的football terraces風格；或是90年代DJ與與電音蓬勃發展，愛跑趴的Raver們把色彩鮮豔誇張的派對文化帶上伸展台。HOUSE OF HOLLAND 2016春夏的男裝把足球穿著結合了鮮豔的色彩，高調的個人風格在髮型設計上也同樣顯而易見。</p>
<p>在這場以「個人特色」為靈感的時裝秀上，因人而異的為模特兒訂做髮型成了藝術總監Cos Sakkas的首要工作，他根據服裝與男模的性格，量身打造能凸顯其個性的街頭時尚髮型，不只成功在時裝秀成了完美綠葉，更是全球男性都能輕易仿效的簡單造型。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-houseofholland-0918-db-bs-7896.jpg?1612256356176" alt="ss16-houseofholland-0918-db-bs-7896" /><img style="font-size: 14px;" src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-houseofholland-0693-db-bs-1136.jpg?1612256356176" alt="ss16-houseofholland-0693-db-bs-1136" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>From football terraces, to buffalo boys and 90s ravers – House of Holland’s first menswear collection was high on individuality as was the height of the hair. Each model inspired their own look, with Artistic Director Cos Sakkas and team creating a bespoke style to highlight the individual character of its muse. “Personality” was the message stated loud and clear – individuality makes a man.</p>
<div class="titleJL2 brHr my-5">THE QUIFF</div>
<p>2016年的捲髮回歸不僅限於女性，蓬鬆、不修邊幅的捲髮質感也回到了男士伸展台，在E. TAUTZ的時裝秀上，藝術總監Kevin Luchmun以1950年代搖滾與鄉村並重的Rockabilly作為背景，擷取了二戰後的經典造型，帶點反叛和挑釁的男孩氣息。Kevin將男模的頭髮以造型品輔助，以手指梳攏頭髮使用小鐵夾固定，創造自然紋理，將頭髮集中於後頸上方，做出如同鴨子屁屁的趣味造型。</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img style="font-size: 14px;" src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-etautz-0790-db-bs-1295.jpg?1612256562103" alt="ss16-etautz-0790-db-bs-1295" /><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-etautz-0709-db-bs-8296.jpg?1612256562103" alt="ss16-etautz-0709-db-bs-8296" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The quiff is most certainly back in style, worn high and voluminous with a distinct nod to 1950s Rockabilly. Artistic Director Kevin Luchmun and team created a rebellious take on this 50s classic, the inspiration - a post war kid taking control of his life. Hair was swept back, and slicked at the sides but texture was key, with a “duck ass” creating interest at the back.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img src="assets/uploads/files/2016/110/96/ss16-etautz-0197-db-bs-2298.jpg?1612256562103" alt="ss16-etautz-0197-db-bs-2298" /></p>
<p> </p>
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